Your wooden fence is more than just a boundary marker — it’s an important element of your home’s exterior aesthetic and a significant investment in your property. Over time, sun, rain, and extreme temperatures can cause wood to fade, crack, and deteriorate.
Staining your fence is a crucial maintenance step that not only enhances its appearance but also provides essential protection against the elements.
It’s not difficult. Before staining your fence, repair any damage and then clean and sand it for a smooth surface. Use a brush, roller, or sprayer to apply stain evenly, making sure to stain the nooks and crannies as well.
| Skill level: Beginner Cost: $20-$30 a gallon |
What You Need
- Pressure washer or a garden hose with a high-pressure spray nozzle
- Drop cloth
- Painter’s tape
- 150-grit sandpaper
- Paint stirrer
- Three- to four-inch straight-edged brush and one-inch angled brush
- Standard nine-inch roller with a natural roller cover and ½-inch nap, mini five-inch roller, and paint tray
- HVLP sprayer
Choose the Right Type of Stain
Water-based stains are easier to apply and contain low VOCs, while oil-based stains are more durable because they penetrate the wood deeply, making them a better choice for staining. Both water- and oil-based stains come in transparent, semi-transparent, and solid finishes. A gallon of stain covers 250 square feet of fence.
Transparent stains work well if your fence is new and you want to show off the natural beauty of wood. Otherwise, I would recommend sticking with a semi-transparent stain unless you want to completely hide the original appearance of your fence, in which case, a solid stain is a better choice.
Prep Work
Before you start staining your fence, here’s everything you need to do:
- Check the weather: Choose a day when the temperature is between 45 and 85 degrees and no rain is forecast for 24 hours. Extreme heat can dry out stains too quickly, leaving unwanted lap marks, while cooler temperatures can prolong the drying time.
- Clear the area near the fence: Trim any grass or plants in contact with the fence and move nearby furniture.
- Clean the fence: Use a pressure washer to remove dirt and old paint or varnish from the fence. Choose a pressure washer between 1,000 and 1,500 psi and always start at the lowest setting to avoid damaging the wood slats. If you don’t have a pressure washer, use a high-pressure spray nozzle attached to a garden hose.
- Repair any damage: Check for loose screws and broken boards and fix them. Sand down any rough spots.
Protect Surrounding Areas
Cover nearby desirable plants with a drop cloth, and use painter’s tape to protect hardware and decorative elements of the fence where you don’t want to get stain. Also, place a drop cloth under the fence to prevent accidental spills.
Sand the Fence
Let the fence dry for at least 48 hours and sand it lightly with 150-grit sandpaper until the surface is smooth.
How to Stain With a Brush
Brushes work well for small fences, but if your fence is large, I recommend sticking with a roller or sprayer to save time. A three- to four-inch straight-edged brush is ideal for staining fences. Use a one-inch angled brush to stain the nooks and crannies.
- Stir the stain thoroughly to distribute color pigments evenly.
- Start at the top of the fence by applying stain to the horizontal slats from left to right. Use vertical strokes if your fence has vertical boards.
- To avoid overlapping marks, never stop staining in the middle.
- Apply a second coat using the same steps. Allow at least four hours (refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines) for the first coat to dry completely.
How to Stain With a Roller
If you have a large fence, staining with a roller can save you a lot of time. Use a nine-inch lamb’s wool or mohair roller with a ½-inch nap to stain slats and a mini five-inch roller for corners. You’ll still need a brush for hard-to-reach places.
- Pour an inch of stain into the paint tray and load the nap five to six times through it.
- Stain the slats from top to bottom.
- Reload the roller when it stops spreading the stain. When you stop, work on top of the wet stain to avoid lap marks.
- Use a paint brush to smooth any rough spots.
- Follow the same steps to apply a second coat.
How to Stain With a Sprayer
Using a sprayer saves you even more time, but if you don’t have experience with it, I recommend sticking with a roller to avoid overspray. An HVLP sprayer is ideal for staining fences.
- Load the reservoir with a funnel and practice on a scrap surface.
- Paint sprayers work in either horizontal or vertical patterns. Use a vertical pattern for horizontal boards and a horizontal pattern for vertical boards.
- Hold the sprayer about 12 inches from the surface, and always work in short strokes. Apply stain by moving your whole body, not just your wrist, for even coverage.
- Overlap the edges for a smooth finish.
- Repeat these steps to apply a second coat.
FAQs
Stain your fence every three years to protect it from the elements. Fences exposed to harsh weather require staining every two years.
No, you should let your fence completely dry before applying stain for proper adhesion and a smooth finish.
Should I DIY or hire a professional?
Staining a fence isn’t difficult, but if you don’t want to spend your weekend on this project, it’s best to hire a pro. Home Gnome delivers the best home service experience at the click of a button. Book reliable, skilled painters in seconds and leave the rest to us.
Main Image Credit: Andy Dean / Adobe Stock Free / License
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