Painting is a quick and affordable way to add style, protect your concrete, and enhance any space, inside or out. Start by cleaning the surface, repairing cracks and damage, applying paint primer, applying the concrete paint, and applying a concrete sealer.
If you are unsure about how to paint concrete, this guide will show you the basics. We’ll walk you through each step, from cleaning to sealing, to help you get the job done.
| Project difficulty: Intermediate Estimated time to complete: 2 to 3 days Drying time: 24 to 48 hours; 7 days for heavy traffic Estimated project cost: $150 (Depends on the area’s size) |
Supplies Needed:
Materials
- Degreaser or trisodium phosphate (TSP)
- Concrete primer
- Concrete coating or paint
- Concrete sealer
- Painter’s tape
- Heavy-duty plastic sheeting
- Concrete patch, liquid crack filler, or self-leveling concrete caulk (if necessary)
- Pressure washer (if outside)
- Epoxy flakes (optional)
- Anti-slip powder (optional)
Tools
- Broom
- Vacuum
- Stiff-bristle brush or scrub brush
- Pressure washer
- Wire brush or paint scraper
- Paint brush
- Paint rollers
- Paint roller tray
- Paint scraper if you apply epoxy flakes
- Caulk gun (if necessary)
PPE
- Respirator
- Safety goggles
- Rubber gloves
- Long-sleeved clothing
- Rubber boots or spiked shoes for epoxy
| Pro Tip: “Use coatings appropriate for the space (acrylic for patios, epoxy for garages)” – Nick DiLeo |
Steps to Paint Concrete
Step 1: Prep the Surface
Before you start painting, make sure you clean the concrete completely. Nicholas “Nick” DiLeo, owner of DiLeo’s Carpentry, explains, “Concrete collects oil, dirt, and efflorescence. If not cleaned and etched, paint won’t adhere properly.
“We pressure wash, degrease, and either acid-etch or mechanically grind to create a porous surface. Think of it like sanding wood before staining—you want a profile the paint can bite into.”
Clean up: Use a degreaser or TSP mixed with water. If the concrete is outside, pressure wash it first. Get rid of weeds, chipped paint, and any other debris.
If you choose chemical etching: Clean and wet the concrete, then scrub in an etching solution to open up surface pores. Once it stops bubbling, rinse off the solution thoroughly. Etching solutions contain acid and may cause severe burns, so PPE and discretion are crucial.
If you choose mechanical etching: Choose between diamond grinding or shot blasting. If you go with this option, rent heavy machinery to expose the raw concrete and make it ready for paint.
With epoxy or polycuramine coating, you’ll want to apply it directly to raw, unsealed concrete. Mechanical etching can get rid of any paint or topical sealer for you.
In an interview with my colleague Judith, concrete expert Bruce Guard of Texas Tough Concrete Coatings in Georgetown said that, “in general, if you are going to apply a concrete coating, vacuum diamond grinding is the way to go.”
That said, Guard clarified that it’s most important to refer to the technical data sheet attached to your product—it overrules personal preference and all the advice out there.
Fix your concrete: Don’t forget to clean and fill in all cracks and holes.
Protect yourself and your surroundings: Put on PPE and tape along the perimeter of your concrete surface. Cover whatever furniture you leave nearby with plastic.
Read about concrete prep: How to Etch Concrete
Step 2: Apply Primer
Nick pointed out the benefits of using a primer before painting. He said, “Primer improves adhesion, evens out absorption, and prevents peeling. It’s especially critical on older or previously sealed concrete.
“Skipping primer leads to uneven coats, premature chipping, and wasted effort. For epoxy or industrial coatings, primer is non-negotiable—it’s what bonds the whole system together.” Some concrete paints already include primer, so check your product label.
Mix your primer: Use a paint tray to mix it.
Use a brush, then a roller: Use a brush to apply primer along edges and corners. Then switch to a roller to cover larger areas.
Apply another coat if needed: If you’re painting over old paint or working on an outdoor surface, you may want to apply an extra coat of primer. Be sure to follow the drying times listed on the product label, and let the first coat dry completely before adding the second. Then, let the second coat dry before moving on to paint.
Step 3: Get Your Coating or Paint Ready
For garage floors and other high-traffic interior surfaces: In her article on The Best Paint Types for Garage Floors, my colleague Judith van der Weij asked three different experts for a garage floor paint recommendation. All three advised 100% epoxy coating. 1-part epoxy paint is a good paint option, although it’s not nearly as strong as the coating.
Polycuramine coating is similar to epoxy coating but is even more durable. However, you have to prepare to pay extra for it.
If you use epoxy or polycuramine coating, don’t forget to wear spiked shoes. The coating will most likely come in two parts: the color part and the hardener part. Mix them well in a bucket. You should also mix the paint beforehand to make sure the shade is consistent. Don’t use a paint tray for epoxy, or some of it may remain at the bottom.
You can add anti-slip powder to your epoxy coating for extra safety.
For driveways and other high-traffic exterior surfaces: Craig Lloyd of Lloyd Handyman in Atascadero, CA, advised my colleague Judith that traffic paint is the best choice. Go for acrylic-latex or 100% acrylic. Traffic paint is more durable but is only available in basic colors. If you want to choose your own shade, Lloyd says to use exterior-grade flat-sheen paint.
I should let you know, though, that Lloyd wouldn’t recommend painting a driveway to begin with—the maintenance is too much, no matter what paint you choose. Tinted sealers are a great alternative for high-traffic interiors and exteriors.
Read more: Types of Concrete Sealers and How to Choose
Use a paint tray. You may want to thin the first coat with water and then apply the paint at a normal consistency for the following layers. Similarly to epoxy and polycuramine, mix your paint beforehand and add anti-slip powder if desired.
For walls, low-traffic surfaces, and foundations: acrylic or acrylic-based masonry paint is the best choice. Use a paint tray, mix all your paint, and you’re ready to go.
Paint to avoid: Don’t use oil-based paint on any concrete surface; it doesn’t work well.
Step 4: Apply Your Coating or Paint
Use a brush, then a roller: Start by painting the edges and corners of the concrete surface using a brush. Then switch to a roller to cover the larger areas. Use a thick-nap roller for rough concrete and a thinner one for smooth surfaces.
Stir the paint thoroughly before applying, and spread it in even, thin layers. If you’re painting a small surface, feel free to just use a brush.
Apply another coat if needed: With most paints, you need at least two coats for full coverage.
Let the first coat dry completely before adding the next. This usually takes about 24 hours, but check your paint label for the exact time.
If you’re painting a floor, begin at the farthest corner and work your way toward the door so you don’t get stuck. After the final coat, wait one to two days before walking on the surface or placing anything on it.
Optionally, apply epoxy flakes: You can sprinkle epoxy flakes on top of your epoxy coating or even your paint to make it more slip-resistant and aesthetically pleasing. They may be included in your epoxy kit, or you can buy them for about $5 to $15 per pound.
As you apply the last layer of coating, simply sprinkle a small amount of epoxy flakes upward, and they should spread evenly over your coating. The coating needs to be wet, or it won’t work. Once they dry, scrape off any pieces that stick out with a paint scraper, and sweep or vacuum the whole surface.
| Pro Tip: “Roll in thin, even coats using a 3/8″ nap roller. Backroll after spraying for full coverage. Allow proper cure time between coats.” – Nick DiLeo |
Step 5: Optionally, Apply a Concrete Sealer
Seal your concrete after the paint has dried to ensure long-lasting results. Sealer will protect the paint from moisture, UV rays, scratches, and everyday wear, especially on outdoor surfaces or high-traffic areas like patios and floors. Using it is advisable.
Use a sealer made specifically for concrete; there are plenty to choose from. In the case of epoxy, it seals well on its own, but a polyurethane sealer will give you a stronger hold.
Carefully follow the manufacturer’s directions. You can add anti-slip powder to your sealer, too. Make sure your sealer will work for your paint type—it never hurts to test an inconspicuous area first. Use a paint brush and a roller or a pump-up sprayer.
If you use a brush and a roller: Start by cutting in the edges with a clean paint brush, then use a roller to cover the rest of the surface evenly. When sealing a small surface, you can just stick with the brush, of course.
If you use a pump-up sprayer: Mist the sealer in a circular motion. Avoid going back and forth—that can cause streaks.
Make sure the concrete has dried completely after painting, and give the sealer time to cure before using the area.
Although you might not need to seal low-traffic indoor walls, you should seal floors and exterior concrete to keep the painted surface looking fresh and intact.
| Pro Tip: “Consider a urethane topcoat in high-traffic areas.” – Nick DiLeo |
FAQs
Yes, painting concrete can trap moisture if you don’t prepare the surface properly or use the wrong type of paint. Since concrete is naturally porous, it tends to absorb moisture from its surroundings.
Using non-breathable paints, such as acrylic-latex, can seal in that moisture, which may result in bubbling, peeling paint, or even mold developing underneath. Check your concrete for moisture before you paint it.
To check if the concrete is ready for painting, you need to test for moisture. One simple method is the plastic sheet test. Tape down a 2-foot by 2-foot piece of clear plastic (at least four mil thick) using duct tape to seal all edges. Leave it in place for 48 hours. You can likely paint the surface if there’s no condensation or damp spots.
You can also use a moisture meter or a calcium chloride test kit, both available at most home improvement stores. These tools provide a more precise measurement of moisture levels. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with the product to ensure accurate results.
Pro Tip: “Always check for moisture first—use a plastic sheet test.” – Nick DiLeo
Yes, you can paint over cracks in concrete, but it’s recommended to fix them first. Painting without repairing may not cover the cracks well, and they can easily reappear.
Unsealed cracks also let moisture in, which can lead to peeling paint or further damage. To get the best results, patch the cracks before priming and painting.
You don’t always need to seal painted concrete, but it’s a good idea. A concrete sealer helps protect the painted surface from scratches, peeling, moisture, and everyday wear.
It can also enhance the appearance of the paint by adding a subtle sheen and making the surface easier to clean. Whether you need to seal depends on the location and how much use the surface will get, but applying a sealant is a smart step for added protection and longer-lasting results.
Make Your Concrete Into a Statement Piece
You need to get your concrete paint job just right to avoid costly mistakes. The prep makes up for more than half of it; from there, you need to carefully lay the right paint and sealer. If all goes well, what you’ll get back in the end is not only a tough, durable surface but also a striking feature.
If you’re unsure of your DIY painting skills, consider calling in a local pro to handle the job for you instead.
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Main Photo: A person paints concrete with white paint using a paint roller. pundapanda / Adobe Stock
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