How to Winterize a Vacant House

Whether you’re away for a week or the entire season, learning how to winterize your vacant house is key. I’ll explain how to drain your pipes and complete other tasks to protect your home.

I live in Pennsylvania, where winter can be brutal, with temperatures dropping into the single digits. We deal with crazy winds, ice, and a lot of snow. So, getting ready for winter is just something we do. I’ll share firsthand tips to help you avoid issues like burst pipes, ice dams, and damage from heavy snow on trees so you can enjoy your time away worry-free.

If you’re looking for tips on winterizing an occupied home, check out this article instead: How to Winterize a House.

How to Winterize Plumbing in a Vacant House

Since protecting pipes is a major winter concern, let’s start with the plumbing. The goal when winterizing your plumbing is to prevent the pipes from bursting due to freezing temperatures. There are a few things you’ll need to do: shut off the water and drain the pipes, insulate the attic and basement pipes, and add non-toxic antifreeze.

Shut Off the Water

a person turning the valve of a residential water pipeline
Photo Credit: Tomasz Zajda / Adobe Stock Free / License

Shutting off your home’s main water supply can prevent leaks, frozen pipes, and other plumbing issues that could cause water damage while you’re away. Contact your city to have them turn off the water at the street, or do it yourself if your city allows.

If you can’t shut off the main water supply, you can still turn off the water supply to specific appliances, toilets, sinks, etc.

This video shows you how to use a water meter key, aka shutoff wrench, to turn off the water main to your house. (Again, check with your city before you attempt this.) If you don’t have this tool, you can use a crescent wrench or ask if any of your neighbors have one they’ll lend you.

Turn Off and Drain the Water Heater

Turning off your water heater can prevent damage from freezing temperatures. The process varies based on its type, gas or electric, as well as the specific model, so check your water heater’s manual (paper or online) before you begin.

To help you get started, though, here are general guidelines to give you an overview of the process:

Gas water heater:

  • Turn off the gas: Look for a valve/valve handle, and rotate the valve 90 degrees clockwise, perpendicular to the pipe. (Then you know it’s in the OFF position.) Alternatively, turn the setting to “pilot.”
  • Turn off the water supply: Turn the water supply valve to the OFF position. 
  • Drain the leftover water: Attach a hose to the drain valve. Open the drain valve and the pressure relief valve (or turn on the hot water). This allows the water to drain.

Electric water heater:

  • Turn off the power at the breaker: Find the circuit breaker in your electrical panel that you’ve previously marked “water heater.” Switch the breaker to the OFF position. 
  • Turn off the water supply: Turn the water supply valve to the OFF position.
  • Drain the leftover water: Attach a hose to the drain valve. Open the drain valve and the pressure relief valve (or turn on the hot water). This allows the water to drain.

Check out this video below for a hands-on demonstration of how to turn off and drain your water heater. The steps are slightly different from the instructions above, but either way gets the job done. (And there’s no need to blow into the hose):

Drain the Water Lines

After shutting off the main water supply to the house, you can now drain the water lines. (If that isn’t possible, turn off the individual supply valves for all toilets, sinks, showers, and appliances): 

  • Toilets: Start by flushing every toilet to empty the tank and bowl. If water remains in the bowl, flush again until it’s clear. Finally, flush all the toilets again to eliminate leftover water in the bowls and tanks.
  • Sinks/showers: Turn on all the hot and cold faucets to drain water out of the pipes. 
  • Appliances (washing machine and dishwasher): Turn on your washing machine with hot and cold water settings until the water stops coming out. For your dishwasher, let that run until there’s no more water in it. The water should empty pretty fast, depending on how long the pipes are, especially if you’ve shut off the main water supply.
  • Exterior spigot/hose bib: Don’t forget to turn off the interior shut-off valves that carry water to the exterior spigots. Then, open all the spigots to drain any excess water. Leave them open for a few hours to ensure all the water is removed.

Note: If your house has a water softening system and you’re unsure of the most effective winterization approach for your particular water softener, it’s a good idea to contact the company who installed the system for you for advice.

Insulate Interior Pipes

man insulating the pipes of a floor heating system
Photo Credit: bildlove / Adobe Stock Free / License

Covering water supply pipes with foam pipe insulation is a popular method to protect pipes in your basement, attic, crawlspace, and garage. Using foam pipe insulation or a heating cable, you should insulate any pipes you can see, including the water softener. These foam insulators look a lot like pool noodles for babies and have a split down the side with a sticky strip on the inside.

Use Antifreeze

​​​​Now that you’ve drained the pipes, go one step further and add antifreeze (NOT the type you use in cars) to prevent any lingering water from causing damage.

Pour non-toxic plumbing antifreeze, often labeled as RV antifreeze, in all the sinks, tubs, and shower drains. For the toilets, pour the antifreeze into the toilet tank and bowl and then flush the toilet to distribute it.

Pro Tip: If you want to go the extra mile, hire a plumbing pro to blow out your interior pipes using an air compressor before you use the antifreeze.

To learn more about winterizing the pipes in your home, check out our articles below:

How to Winterize a Vacant House’s Interior

Check Your Heating System 

In most homes in the U.S., heating is done using either furnaces or boilers. Furnaces warm up the air and send that warm air through the house using ducts. On the other hand, boilers heat water and can provide hot water or steam to warm the home.

If you have the knowledge, tools, and skills to maintain your heating system yourself, feel free to do so. However, if you have any questions, hire a qualified HVAC technician to inspect and service your system to ensure it operates properly while you’re gone. Alternatively, sign up for a yearly maintenance contract and be first in line on their busy fall schedule.

Furthermore, if your home features an older steam heating system, such as a hot water radiator, it’s also recommended to have an HVAC specialist assess those systems.

Note: For houses with fire sprinklers linked to the primary water supply, such as those now required in California or Maryland, it’s wise to have a licensed fire suppression company or a registered master plumber inspect your system.

Adjust Your Thermostat

A happy woman is turning heat on in her apartment.
Photo Credit: Dusan Petkovic / Adobe Stock Free / License

Many people lower the thermostat to conserve energy costs when they go on vacation or close a second home for the winter. However, lowering the heat below 55 degrees Fahrenheit or turning it off is not recommended, as you may risk burst pipes and damaged possessions.

But there’s a solution: Consider buying a smart thermostat. Smart thermostats can help you save money on heating and cooling and give you the ability to program or change the temperature from your phone. Additionally, these devices monitor and maintain humidity levels to keep your home’s air at a safe level while you’re away.

Unplug Appliances and Devices

Disconnect all non-essential appliances, like your stove and microwave, before departing for the winter. This step is crucial as it helps prevent potential electrical issues or fire hazards while the house is unoccupied. Unplugging these devices can save energy and reduce utility costs while the house is vacant. 

Insulate Attic and Basement

Get your insulation ready for cold weather, as it plays a crucial role in protecting against the winter elements. To reduce ice dams, consider upgrading your insulation before winter, especially in the attic. Excess heat escaping can melt snow, refreeze it, and form ice dams, potentially causing water damage or roof collapse.

Insulated Attic in a house
Photo Credit: Harley Grandone

Note: If you notice water stains on your attic or basement insulation, it may indicate a leak. Inspect the insulation for damage and check for mold or mildew, which can signal a larger issue like a leaky pipe or roof. 

Inspect Your Sump Pump

Sump Pump in a house
Photo Credit: Harley Grandone

Winterizing a sump pump can be tricky, so contact a trusted local plumber with lots of experience winterizing vacant homes and cabins. The type of sump pump you have (electric or water-powered) determines how you winterize it.

My Tip: Our basement has an electric sump pump but lacks a battery backup system. During heavy rainstorms, the sump pump well (hole in the basement floor where the sump pump sits) fills up with water, and the sump pump removes the water just fine. 

However, if there’s a power outage during a rainstorm, the sump pump doesn’t work. We get out the rainboots, squeegee, buckets, and start bailing. Now we’re talking old school. 

How to Winterize a Vacant House’s Exterior

Winterizing the exterior of a vacant house involves protecting the windows, roof, siding, and foundation from water and cold temperatures. 

Seal Entry Points

Sealing entry points in a vacant house is crucial to prevent pests, avoid water leaks, and regulate indoor temperatures, ensuring the house is energy-efficient and comfortable. 

  • Seal windows: Make sure the windows and doors are sealed tightly since air leaks can increase your heating bills. For more information, check out How to Weatherproof Windows to keep your home draft-free.
  • Roof and attic: Look for any loose or broken shingles that could lead to leaks. Ice and heavy snow can worsen any existing issues and directly impact your comfort and health (roof leaks, mold, and mildew).
  • Siding: Check the siding for any damage. It can let water in, attract pests, and raise energy costs. 
  • Foundation: Look for cracks or gaps that might let water or pests into your home. 

Pro Tip: A professional roof and attic inspection is a smart idea to ensure nothing is overlooked.

Trim Trees and Large Shrubs

Large Shrubs covered with snow
Photo Credit: Harley Grandone

Before winter hits, inspect your trees and shrubs to look for broken or dead branches. These limbs easily break in heavy snow or fierce winds, damaging homes, roofs, other landscaping, and cars, for example. If you feel comfortable, trim off the dead or damaged parts yourself. But if you’re unsure, hire a landscaping professional to do the job. 

My Tip: Our yard has older arborvitaes that bend and snap under the weight of heavy, wet snow, so we get them pruned back to a manageable height. We also shake off the heavy snow.

Clean Gutters and Downspouts

frozen gutters of a house
Photo Credit: Harley Grandone

Gutters and downspouts move water away from your roof. Keeping them clear can help stop bigger issues later, like ice dams, cracks in your foundation, and water overflowing from the gutters, damaging the siding and the foundation.

Here are some tips for keeping your gutters and downspouts clear:

  • Clear leaves and debris from gutters. 
  • Install foam rubber insulation sleeves (they look like pool noodles with a slit down the side and adhesive tape) to winterize your downspouts.
  • Check the bottom of the downspout for leaves, twigs, and/or mud. 
  • Unclog any blockages using a drain snake or a long tool. (A leaf blower can clear out loose debris, too.)  
  • Flush it out with a hose to get water to flow.

My Tip: You can also use heating cables around and along the length of your gutter, as I’ve done. But keep in mind that these connect to electricity, so you’ll need to keep the electricity on throughout the winter to keep these going.

Learn more about how to protect your gutters during winter:

Blow Out the Irrigation System

winterizing a irrigation sprinkler system by blowing pressurized air through to clear out water
Winterizing a sprinkler system by blowing pressurized air through to clear out water
Photo Credit: Lost_in_the_Midwest / Adobe Stock / License

Getting a blowout (not referring to a hairstyle) means using an air compressor to force air through the irrigation system, expelling water from the sprinkler heads. It’s best to have your irrigation company do this chore to avoid damaging your pipes. But these companies can get super busy in the fall, so schedule earlier than later. 

In Pennsylvania, we like to prepare in late September or early October, before the onset of the first frost. 

Note: If water stays in the pipes during winter, it will freeze, damaging sprinkler heads, connectors, and PVC valves, meaning significant repair costs come spring.

Insulate Exterior Spigots

Before winter, unplug all hoses and fix any leaks in your spigots. What might seem like a harmless drip during the summer can turn into a frozen spigot and pipe when winter arrives. Additionally, protect your exterior hose bibs with insulated faucet covers to prevent damage.

FAQ

Is it Possible to Winterize an Empty House on Your Own? 

Absolutely. In addition to the details I shared in the article, here are a few more suggestions to consider: 

  • Inspect the exterior steps and handrails for any loose components.
  • Clear away snow, ice, or standing water if you’re going on a short vacation. Additionally, spread rock salt on your driveway and sidewalks to stop ice from forming.
  • Look for any signs of damage in your crawl space. Rodents and moisture often wreak havoc in this space. It’s probably best to hire a pro to inspect your crawl space if this has never been done before.

How Do You Winterize a Vacant House Without Heat?

To winterize a vacant house without heat, follow the same steps as you would to winterize a home with heat: shut off the water, drain all water supply lines, add non-toxic antifreeze to the lines, and unplug small appliances. Also, take care of your exterior (clean gutters; check for openings where pests, drafts, or water could enter; and trim vegetation).

But here are additional tasks to consider if your home will be unheated: 

  • Consult your insurance provider about coverage for burst pipes if you turn off the heat. 
  • Store liquid containers in a plastic bin to contain any mess if they freeze. 
  • Install blackout shades on windows to prevent condensation from sunlight. 
  • Contact the utility companies to inform them that the house has been winterized.

Winterize Your Vacant Home to Avoid Winter Worries

Your vacant house is important to you, and you want to protect it by preparing the water lines, insulating properly, and ensuring the exterior tasks (trees, gutters, and irrigation systems) have been completed. By taking the time to implement the methods we’ve covered in this article, you’ll feel secure knowing your house is safe. 

However, if you’d prefer to have someone else tackle most of these tasks, it’s time to call in the pros. Let Home Gnome connect you with local gutter cleaning pros or handyman services to prepare your vacant home for the coming winter season.

Read More:

Note: Home Gnome may get a referral fee for matching you with pros in your area.

Main Image Credit: karamysh / Adobe Stock Free / License

Harley Grandone

Harley Grandone is an accomplished writer who has assisted her family with DIY projects throughout the years: gutter cleaning with her dad, wallpapering her daughter's nursery, and painting a bathroom, to name a few. To complement her DIY experience indoors, she also brings over 20 years of valuable landscaping experience to her work as a writer.