When I first decided to install blinds in my apartment, I thought it would be a tough job, best left to the experts. However, after tackling the project with my dad, I quickly realized it was much more manageable than I expected (and actually kind of fun).
In this guide, I’ll walk you through each step of the process, from measuring the window to securing the blinds in place, with a few handy tips along the way. So, if you’re looking to learn how to install window blinds of different types, whether horizontal, vertical, or cellular shades, I’ve got you covered.
Inside or Outside Mount?
Before you start, decide whether you want an inside mount (blinds fit inside the window frame) or an outside mount (blinds extend beyond the frame). This applies to most blind types, including horizontal, vertical, and cellular blinds.
| Mount Type | Pros | Cons |
| Inside Mount | Sleek, built-in look. Works well with curtains. Maximizes window space. | Requires deep window frames (at least 2 inches) and may leave small gaps |
| Outside Mount | Provides full light blockage. Works for shallow frames. Can make windows appear larger. | Takes up more wall space. May require projection brackets. |
How to choose what’s best: If your window frame is at least 2 inches deep, go for an inside mount for a seamless look. Otherwise, an outside mount is the way to go.
Horizontal Blinds
Why Choose Horizontal Blinds?
Horizontal wood blinds, also known as Venetian blinds, are a classic and elegant choice. They have horizontal slats that can be tilted to adjust light control or lifted entirely to allow an unobstructed view.
Best for: Living rooms, bedrooms, and offices
Available in: Real wood, faux wood, aluminum, and vinyl
Considerations: Real wood looks premium but can warp in humid environments like bathrooms. Faux wood is a durable, budget-friendly alternative.
Understanding Key Parts
| Key Part | Description |
| Headrail | The top part that houses the lifting and tilting mechanisms |
| Valance | A decorative cover that hides the headrail for a polished look |
| Slats | Horizontal pieces that control light and privacy |
| Cord or wand | Used to raise, lower, or tilt the slats |
Step-by-Step Installation
| Project difficulty: Easy Estimated time to complete: 20 – 30 minutes Project cost: $20 – $70+ |
Tools and Materials
Tools:
- Drill and drill bits that are slightly smaller than screws (for pilot holes)
- Screwdriver (to secure brackets)
- Tape measure (for accurate measurements)
- Level (to ensure straight installation)
- Pencil (to mark bracket positions)
- Ladder (for tall windows)
Materials:
- Blinds (including headrail, slats, and cords)
- Brackets & screws (included with blinds)
- Projection brackets (if needed, for clearance)
- Wall anchors (if mounting on drywall with no stud)
- Safety cleat (for securing cords)
Step 1: Measure the Window Area
Tools/Materials needed: tape measure, pencil
- My father took charge of the measuring while I assisted. He taught me that measuring once isn’t enough — always take three width measurements: top, middle, and bottom. We used the smallest for the inside mount.
- Measure the height at three points and use the longest measurement.
- For inside mounts, check the window frame depth to ensure there’s enough space for the blinds and brackets. Since this window faced my work desk, I wanted maximum light blocking, so we considered an outside mount but ultimately stuck with an inside mount for a cleaner look.
- For outside mounts, decide how much coverage you want and add 2 to 3 inches beyond the window frame for better light control.
Step 2: Mark Bracket Locations
Tools/Materials needed: pencil, level, tape measure
- Hold the brackets in position, about 1 inch from the edge for inside mounts.
- For outside mounts, mark the placement above the window opening.
- I assisted my dad and used a level to ensure the brackets were aligned, as any slight tilt could make the blinds hang unevenly. For a window facing my workspace, ensuring an even bracket placement was important for a neat, functional look without light gaps.
- Mark the screw hole locations with a pencil.
Step 3: Drill Pilot Holes
Tools/Materials needed: power drill, drill bit (slightly smaller than the screws), wall anchors (if drywall)
- Before drilling, we checked for obstructions like the window latch and handles — something I wouldn’t have thought of on my own.
- If mounting on drywall with no stud, use wall anchors.
- Drill small pilot holes at the marked points. Pre-drilling prevents the screws from stripping the wood or going in at an angle.
Step 4: Attach the Brackets
Tools/Materials needed: screwdriver, screws
- Align the brackets with the pilot holes.
- Secure them with screws, but avoid overtightening, which may warp the brackets or damage the frame.
- I noticed that a slight misalignment on one side made the headrail tricky to snap in, so we adjusted before moving on.
Step 5: Install the Headrail
Tools/Materials needed: headrail
- Slide the headrail into the brackets and press until you hear a click.
- When we did it, it wasn’t clicking at first, but my dad showed me how a slight side-to-side wiggle helped it settle into place.
Step 6: Lock the Brackets
Tools/Materials needed: none
- Close the latch or locking mechanism on the brackets to hold the headrail firmly.
- I gave it a gentle tug to double-check, as my desk was right below, and I didn’t want it falling on me later.
Step 7: Attach the Valance
Tools/Materials needed: valance, valance clips
- Clip the valance onto the headrail.
- If the valance has separate clips, snap them onto the headrail before attaching them for a clean, professional look. This is what we did, which mattered since this was a workspace I’d be looking at every day.
Step 8: Install Safety Cleats (For Corded Blinds)
Tools/Materials needed: safety cleats
- Since we installed corded blinds, we mounted a safety cleat near the window frame to keep the cords out of reach of our cats and dogs.
- Wrapping the excess cord around the cleat kept things tidy and prevented it from dangling into my workspace.
Final Tip: Always test the blinds. My father had me test the blinds by pulling the cord and adjusting the tilt wand to ensure smooth operation before finishing. The first time, one side wouldn’t tilt properly, so we realigned the brackets before securing everything.
Vertical Blinds
Why Choose Vertical Blinds?
Vertical blinds are ideal for large windows or sliding glass doors. Instead of horizontal slats, they use vertical vanes that rotate to control light and can be drawn to one side for full window access.
Best for: Sliding glass doors, patio doors, and large windows
Available in: Fabric, PVC, wood, and vinyl
Considerations: These are great for high-traffic areas but may not be ideal for smaller windows. Fabric vanes look softer but require more maintenance.
Understanding Key Parts
| Key Part | Description |
| Headrail | The track that holds and moves the vanes or vertical slats |
| Vanes | Vertical pieces that rotate to control light |
| Cord or wand | Used to open, close, and tilt the vanes |
Step-by-Step Installation
| Project difficulty: Intermediate Estimated time to complete: 45 – 60 minutes Project cost: $50 – $200+ |
Tools and Materials
Tools:
- Drill and drill bits (for making holes)
- Screwdriver (for securing brackets)
- Ladder (if needed for taller windows)
- Pencil (to mark bracket positions)
- Tape measure (for accurate measurements)
- Level (to ensure straight installation)
Materials:
- Blinds (with brackets and screws included)
- Projection brackets (if necessary for additional clearance)
- Wall anchors (if mounting on drywall with no stud)
- Safety cleat or child safety device (to secure cords)
Step 1: Measure the Window Area
Tools/Materials needed: tape measure, pencil
- Width: Measure the full width of the window from one side to the other at the top, middle, and bottom. Use the widest measurement for the best fit.
- Height: Measure from the top of the window frame to the desired length (usually where you want the blinds to end). Measure at the left, middle, and right sides, and use the longest measurement.
- Inside mount (also called recess fit): The brackets should be placed inside the window recess, either on the ceiling of the recess or along the top frame. Ensure the brackets are level for an even fit.
Tip: If the window recess has any irregularities, measure carefully to ensure the brackets are aligned. - Outside mount (also called face fit): Position the brackets outside the window frame, typically about 1 to 3 inches above the window. Ensure the brackets are spaced evenly for a symmetrical look.
Tip: An outside mount is ideal if you want to cover more of the wall or need to hide any window framing.
Step 2: Mark Bracket Placement
Tools/Materials needed: pencil, level, tape measure
- For inside mount: Mark the bracket placement about 3 inches from each end of the window. The brackets should be installed on the ceiling of the window recess or along the top frame.
- For outside mount: Mark the placement above the window, ensuring the brackets are evenly spaced from both ends. Use a level to confirm the markings are straight and aligned before proceeding.
Step 3: Drill Pilot Holes
Tools/Materials needed: power drill, drill bit, wall anchors (for drywall)
- Drill small guide holes at each marked bracket placement.
- For outside mounts: If drilling into drywall without studs, use wall anchors for extra support.
- For inside mounts: Ensure the drill bit does not damage the window frame or obstruct handles.
Step 4: Secure the Brackets
Tools/Materials needed: screws, screwdriver
- For inside mounts: Secure the brackets to the ceiling of the window recess or the top frame. Ensure the center of the bracket aligns with the center of the louver hooks.
- For outside mounts: Secure the brackets to the wall or window trim, spreading them evenly with a maximum distance of 750mm (about 30 inches) between brackets.
Avoid overtightening, as this could warp the brackets or damage the mounting surface.
Tip: Ensure the brackets are level to keep the blinds hanging straight.
Step 5: Install the Headrail
Tools/Materials needed: headrail
- Hook the back lip of the headrail under the bracket pin.
- Raise the front of the headrail and press up until it snaps into place.
- Secure with a front screw if required to lock it in place.
Step 6: Attach the Vanes
Tools/Materials needed: none
- Unroll the vertical blades (vanes) and hook each one onto the clips of the headrail.
- Ensure each vane is evenly spaced and facing the correct direction.
Tip: The correct direction for vertical blinds is to have the vanes facing toward the inside of the room when closed. - If a vane isn’t clicking into place, gently rotate or reposition it before trying again.
Step 7: Test and Adjust
Tools/Materials Needed: none
- Slide the blinds back and forth to ensure they move smoothly along the track.
- Test the rotation of the vanes with the control mechanism (chain or wand) to ensure they function properly.
Step 8: Child Safety Considerations
Tools/Materials needed: safety cleat/bracket, cord safety device
- Vertical blinds often come with cords or chains for operating the blinds. For safety, especially in homes with children, install a safety cleat or child safety device to keep the cords out of reach.
- Safety cleat: Install the cleat high on the wall, out of children’s reach, and wrap the cord around it to prevent accidental entanglement.
- Child safety device: Some blinds come with built-in safety devices that reduce the risk of strangulation hazards. If your blinds don’t have one, consider adding one.
Cellular Shades
Why Choose Cellular Shades?
Cellular shades (also known as honeycomb shades) are a stylish and energy-efficient window treatment. They are great for insulation and keeping homes warm in winter and cool in summer.
Best for: Bedrooms, living rooms, and energy-efficient homes
Available in: Light-filtering or blackout styles
Considerations: Consider opting for single or double-cell construction for better insulation.
Understanding Key Parts
| Key Part | Description |
| Headrail | The top part that contains the lifting mechanism |
| Honeycomb fabric | Air pockets that insulate and control light |
| Cord or wand | Used to adjust the shades |
Step-by-Step Installation
| Project difficulty: Easy Estimated time to complete: 30 – 45 minutes Project cost: $25 – $80+ |
Tools and Materials
Tools:
- Drill and drill bits (for making holes)
- Screwdriver (for securing brackets)
- Ladder (if needed for taller windows)
- Pencil (to mark bracket positions)
- Tape measure (for accurate measurements)
- Level (to ensure straight installation)
Materials:
- Blinds (with brackets and screws included)
- Projection brackets (if necessary for additional clearance)
- Wall anchors (if mounting on drywall with no stud)
- Safety cleat or cord tensioner (to secure cords)
Step 1: Measure the Window Area
Tools/Materials needed: tape measure, pencil
- If inside mount:
- Measure the window depth from the frame front to the glass to ensure enough space for installation.
- Measure the height at the left, middle, and right sides, and use the tallest measurement.
- Measure the width at the top, middle, and bottom, and use the narrowest measurement to ensure a proper fit.
- If outside mount:
- Measure the desired width and height beyond the window frame for full coverage.
- Add at least 2 to 3 inches on each side to improve light blocking and privacy.
Step 2: Mark Bracket Placement
Tools/Materials needed: pencil, level, tape measure
- If inside mount: Mark the bracket placement about 2.5 inches from each side of the top window frame.
- If outside mount: Mark the placement above the window, ensuring the brackets are evenly spaced for balance.
- Use a level to confirm that the markings are straight and aligned before proceeding.
Step 3: Drill Pilot Holes
Tools/Materials needed: power drill, drill bit, wall anchors (if needed)
- Drill small guide holes at each marked bracket placement.
- If outside mount and drilling into drywall without studs, use wall anchors for extra support.
- If inside mount, ensure the drill bit does not damage the window frame.
Step 4: Secure the Brackets
Tools/Materials needed: screws, screwdriver
- If inside mount: Secure the brackets to the top frame inside the window recess.
- If outside mount: Secure the brackets to the wall or window trim, keeping them evenly spaced.
- Avoid overtightening, as this could warp the brackets or damage the mounting surface.
Step 5: Install the Headrail
Tools/Materials needed: cellular shade headrail
- Keep shades in the up position for easier handling.
- Align the headrail with the brackets and snap it into place.
- Ensure both ends click firmly into the brackets.
- If center support brackets are included, ensure they are properly aligned before locking the headrail in place.
Step 6: Attach and Test the Shades
Tools/Materials needed: none
- If cordless, gently pull down or push up to test smooth operation.
- If corded, pull the cord toward the center to release the lock and lower the shades.
- Slowly lower and raise the shades to ensure even movement.
- If the shades appear uneven, adjust the brackets or screws carefully.
Step 7: Secure with safety cleat or cord tensioner
Tools/Materials Needed: safety cleat/bracket, cord tensioner (if applicable)
- If corded, install a safety cleat or cord tensioner to prevent accidental entanglement.
- Secure the cleat high on the wall and wrap the cord around it.
- If a tensioner is provided, attach it to the wall to keep cords taut.
- If cordless, no additional safety hardware is needed — this is the safest option for homes with children or pets.
| Blinds in place? You might want to add a touch more style or block extra light. Adding curtains over your blinds is a simple way to do just that. |
Maintenance Tips
Taking good care of your blinds keeps them looking great and functioning smoothly for years to come. While maintenance may feel like a chore, a little effort goes a long way in preventing costly replacements. Here’s how to care for your blinds:
- Inspect the Pulling Cord
Regularly check the pulling cord or wand for signs of wear or fraying. A damaged cord can make raising and lowering blinds difficult — or even dangerous.
- Tighten Loose Screws
Over time, the screws holding the brackets and headrail can loosen, especially with frequent use. Give them a quick check every few months and tighten as needed. If a bracket comes loose, your blinds might sag or even fall off entirely.
- Remove Dust and Debris
Dust and dirt build up quickly on blinds, which can affect their appearance and function. Here’s how to keep them clean:
- For wood and faux wood blinds: Use a microfiber cloth or duster to wipe each slat. Avoid excessive moisture, as real wood can warp.
- For fabric blinds: Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust gently.
- For aluminum or vinyl blinds: Wipe with a damp cloth or use a mild soapy solution for deeper cleaning.
My Tip: For stubborn dust, try wrapping a microfiber cloth around a ruler and sliding it between the slats for a quick and effective clean.
- Check for Alignment Issues
Sometimes, blinds may become misaligned or crooked over time due to frequent use or a slight impact. To fix this, simply check if the slats are even, and if they aren’t, adjust them gently. For vertical blinds, check the vanes to ensure they’re properly spaced and hanging straight.
- Keep Blinds Free of Pests
In some cases, pests like moths or dust mites may make a home in your blinds. To prevent this, periodically inspect the blinds for any signs of insects or mold. A simple cleaning with a disinfectant wipe can help keep pests at bay.
Personal Experience: I once found tiny moths hiding in the fabric blinds already installed in one of the apartments I rented. A quick vacuuming session and a check for any holes in the material kept them at bay.
- Lube Moving Parts
Blinds with mechanical parts (like vertical blinds or those with a pulley system) should be lubricated occasionally. You can use a light silicone-based lubricant on the mechanism to ensure smooth operation. Avoid greasy or heavy oils, as they can attract dirt.
- Check for Damaged Slats, Vanes, or Parts
Blinds are exposed to wear and tear over time, and it’s important to check for any damaged slats, vanes, or other parts like cords, hooks, or wands. A broken slat or bent vane can interfere with the operation of the blinds, and while it may seem minor, it can lead to bigger issues down the road.
To learn more about fixing blinds, read the following:
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