How to Finish Drywall: Easy DIY For Beginners

This article will teach you how to finish drywall. It’ll cover the preparations and step-by-step process for a standard drywall finish. It’ll even show you how to go beyond ‘standard’ and create the smoothest level of drywall finish.

According to Mechanical Engineer Stephen Kao, “Drywall is finished by either skimming just the seams and nail/screw holes or by fully skimming the whole drywall.”

By taping your drywall, applying your first coat, sanding the coat, and following the other simple steps in this article, you’ll be able to create a standard drywall finish.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate Cost: $60 – $80 Drying Time: ~24 hours for each coat Duration: 3 – 4 days

Tools You’ll Need for a Standard Drywall Finish

You can’t finish drywall without the right tools and materials.

• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• All-purpose compound
• Dril
• Paint mixer drill bit
• Drywall tape
• Drywall taping knives (6” and 12”)
• Drywall mud pan
• Pole sander
• Sanding block or sanding sponge
• Drop cloths or tarps
• Hammer
• Screwdriver
• Pocket knife

You’ll find these tools and materials at your local hardware store. You may already even have some of them at home.

Before You Begin

Before you begin the drywall finishing process, there are things you must do to make the project easier, safer, and more successful.

First and foremost, Start by opening the windows. Proper ventilation helps your coating dry faster and even reduces the intensity of drywall dust you’ll have to deal with when working.

Lay drop cloths or tarps on the floor. Drywall finishing is a messy project. Each step of the process will leave your floor untidy and add to your already endless list of post-project cleanups. With tarps or drop cloths on the floor, you can steer clear of this.

Inspect the drywall for any protruding nails or screws. Screw or nail pops make it impossible to achieve the smoothness and evenness you want on your drywall. So, if you find any during your inspection, fix them immediately.

Read More: How to Fix Nail Pops

It’s important to check for and—with your utility knife—cut out loose or torn paper. Damaged drywall can create uneven surfaces, making it difficult to achieve a smooth finish. It can also reduce your coating’s adhesion, which can lead to peeling and chipping later on.

Wear your safety glasses and dust mask. Drywall produces a lot of dust, and while it’s not toxic, it can irritate your eyes and lungs.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step #1: Mix the Joint Compound

The first step is to mix your joint compound, sometimes called “mud.” This removes the bubbles inside it and makes the material easier to work with.

Attach your paint mixer drill to your drill and put it into your bucket of joint compound. Turn on the drill and mix till all the bubbles are gone.

Step #2: Cover the Screw and Nail Heads

The first place to administer your mixed compound is those small dimples harboring nails and screws in your drywall.

Locate all the screws or nails securing the drywall to the studs that hold it. They’ll usually run one after another, either horizontally or vertically across the wall.

With your 6-inch drywall knife, scoop some compound and smear it on the dimples. Run the knife over the screw or nail heads to fill them up.

Step #3: Apply Coat to the Drywall Joints

This process primarily involves smearing your mixed mud onto the drywall. It also includes taping. Stephen notes: “Normally, the seams, joints…are reinforced with tape”.

Here’s how it works:

1. Cut your paper drywall tape according to the span of your drywall. Keep it aside.
2. Use your 6” drywall knife to apply a layer of mud on the seams and joints of your drywall sheets. 
3. Place the tape on the mud, making sure it stays directly on the joints of the drywall.
4. Apply mud to the tape.
5. Gently run your drywall knife across the tape to straighten it out, undo creasings, and squeeze out some of the compound under the tape.

Step #4: Coat the Inside & Outside Corners

Inside corners and outside corners are not built the same, so of course, you can’t coat them the same way. An inside corner is the point where two walls meet to form an angle that points inward. For outside corners, on the other hand, the angle points outward.

Inside Corners

The process for coating inside corners is similar to how you coat your drywall joints. This means you’ll mud and tape. When I asked Stephen how pros approach this step, he said that before the application of mud, “inside corners are reinforced with tape”.

1. Scoop some compound with your drywall knife and apply it to the left and right sides of your corners from up to down.
2. Locate the middle of your tape.
3. Press it in with one hand whilst using the other hand to squeeze the left and right sides of the tape. As you bend the tape into two halves, you’ll create a crease.
4. Place the now creased tape in the corner. It should fit snugly into it.
5. Smear mud on both sides of the tape and run your knife over it until it’s smooth, flat, and without any creases.

Tip: To easily maneuver your knife around corners, hold it sideways with the wide part of the blade flush against the corner.

Outside Corners

Since they point outwards, outside corners are vulnerable to wear, tear, chipping, cracking, and other structural issues. Corner beads are typically installed to shield them from damage and provide structural support.

When finishing outside corners, you won’t be mudding tapes. You’ll instead direct your mudding efforts toward the corner beads. Here’s how it’s done.

Inspect the corner beads and ensure the screws or nails are well-fastened to the drywall. If they’re not, use your screwdriver or hammer to drive them in deeper until they’re flush against the paper.

Use your drywall knife to apply compound to each side of the outside corner. As you do this, give extra attention to the corner bead. Use your knife to administer a little bit of compound over every screw or nail until the corner bead area is not only covered but also smooth.

Keep in Mind: The fastener, joint, and corner coating completed in steps 2 to 4 all constitute your ‘first coat’. This initial layer doesn’t require excessive thickness, as its primary function is to provide a foundation for the subsequent two coats. This aligns with Stephen’s recommendation: “You may use a diluted first coat”.

Before you move on to the next step, let the first coat dry completely. The average drying time for each coating is 24 hours.

Step #5: Sand the Compound

Run your pole sander across your first coat. For the corners where your pole sander will be insufficient, switch to a sanding sponge or sanding stone. The goal is to smoothen out bumpy and uneven areas.

You’ll need to be gentle with your sanding, though. At this stage, there’s only a small amount of compound on the drywall surface. If you’re too rough or if you over-sand, you risk exposing the tape, which means you’ll have to coat again.

Avoid power sanders. They’re too powerful and are highly likely to over-sand the first coating.

Step #6: Apply the Second Coat

After sanding, you’ll need to coat the drywall again. The goal of this second coat is to make the finish smoother, which can improve the wall’s appearance after you paint.

Use your 6” knife to coat the fasteners and the corners. Make sure you lay the mud thicker than in the first coat. Then, smooth the mud out until it’s even.

For the drywall joints or seams, you’ll need a 12-inch drywall knife. Scoop some compound with your knife and apply a layer (thicker than the first coat) to your drywall joints. Run the knife across to ensure a smooth and even finish.

The Residue Problem

In this stage, you’ll notice a lot of residue mud around the areas you’re coating. Since the point of coating is to create a smooth, even surface, you must do something about the residue.

That ‘something’ is feathering. Feathering means applying pressure on the blade of the drywall knife to spread and blend any residue until it is even with the surrounding surface.

After feathering, leave the second coat to dry. Then sand it with your pole sander and sanding sponge as needed.

Step #7: Apply the Final Coat

If you’re looking to achieve a drywall finish that’s the standard for residential homes and commercial buildings, you can’t miss this step. 

The third coat is what levels up your drywall finish from level 3 to 4. By applying this last layer of coat, you’ll be getting rid of all tool marks, ridges, and hairline cracks. You’ll also be creating a uniform surface—one that provides an ideal base for painting.

The procedure for the final coat is just like the second one.

1. Apply another layer of mud to your fasteners, corners, and joints.
2. Feather the new coatings until they blend seamlessly with the surrounding drywall surface.
3. Leave it to dry.
4. Sand it.

And just like that, you have a standard drywall finish. All that’s left is to prime and paint.

That being said, a level 4 drywall finish has its limits. Under harsh or direct lighting, minor imperfections like slight joint lines, bumps, or uneven surfaces might be more noticeable with a level 4 finish compared to a higher-level finish.

To avoid this, you may need to push beyond level 4 and into the realm of level 5 drywall finish.

Reach Level 5 for a Smoother Drywall Finish 

Level 5 is the smoothest and highest level of drywall finishing and it’s not just about the bigger number.

The most notable feature of this finish is its flawless surface. It has been meticulously filled and sanded to eliminate all imperfections and appear mirror-like. Thanks to its impeccable surface, smoothness, and high light reflection, it’s the only type of drywall finish that’s suitable for glossy paint.

No wonder it’s the preferred drywall finish for luxury homes, art galleries, offices, and other ultra-modern buildings.

How to Attain a Flawless Level 5 Finish

A level 5 drywall finish involves adding a skim coat to the whole drywall, not just the corners, fasteners, and joints.

In addition to what you already prepared, you’ll need a brush, water, roller, and a 16-inch drywall knife.

1. Sand the entire wall, ensuring it’s smooth. Since you followed the steps in this article to this point, you don’t need to sand again.
2. Use your brush to wipe down the wall and get rid of any dust, dirt, or grime. We want to create a spotless wall, free of contaminants.
3. Add water to your bucket of joint compound. Use 1 pint of water for every 5 gallons of compound.
4. Attach the paint mixer drill bit to your drill and use it to mix the joint compound. The goal is to create fine, light mud.

Note: Since the mud will get thicker as time goes on, you’ll occasionally need to remix. Thick mud has no place in a level 5 finish. In addition to being difficult to work with, thick mud can create uneven surfaces, and prevent the finish from sticking properly.

5. Use your roller to apply a thick layer of mud onto the drywall from the bottom to the top.
6. Continue until you’ve covered up to 5ft of the wall’s horizontal length with the coat. From here on, you’ll need to move fast.
7. Use your 16″ knife to smooth and scrape off any excesses, ensuring what’s left behind is just a thin, smooth coat.
8. Repeat the process until you’ve covered the whole wall.
9. Let it dry.
10. Sand the general surface with a 220-grit pole sander. For corners and areas where the pole’s effectiveness is lacking, use a sanding sponge (also 220 grit).

There you have it! The highest quality of drywall finish.

It’s worth noting that level 4 and 5 aren’t the only kinds of drywall finish. Lower levels of finish may be adequate for your project.

Call in a Professional

While DIY can be fulfilling, it takes a lot of time and effort, and honestly, the results aren’t always what you might expect.

If you’re short on time or don’t feel like wrestling with mud and tape for days, or, if you just want to be absolutely sure it looks amazing, Home Gnome can hook you up with a home improvement pro in your area. Select an expert, get a quote, and rest assured your drywall finishing project is in capable hands.

What to Read Next: 

• How to Clean Drywall Dust
• How Much Does Drywall Installation Cost?
• How Much Does Drywall Repair Cost?

Note: Home Gnome may get a referral fee for matching you with pros in your area.

Main Image Credit: Sabrewolf / Adobe Stock