How to Install or Replace Gutters

Installing gutters isn’t an easy task. The first step is to prep the area, then remove the old gutters, mark proper placements, assemble all the new gutter parts, and finally screw the new gutters in place.   

But there are a few things to consider before you begin. We put together a step-by-step guide to help you install new gutters safely and correctly. 

Tools, Materials, and Prep Work

Preparation is key. That means having the right materials and the right tools for the job, preparing the surface where the gutters will attach, planning your drainage, and measuring the job. 

Let’s get started. 

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

Here’s a list of the most important tools and components you will need ready before you start. 

Tools: 

• Tape measure
• Cordless drill
• Crimper
• Chalk line
• A sturdy extension ladder
• Work gloves
• Hammer
• Level 
• Hack saw
• Tin snips
• Safety glasses
• Caulk gun
• Twist drill bits
• Pop rivet gun

Supplies: 

• Gutter material 
• Gutter sealant 
• Downspouts and elbows
• Gutter end caps
• ⅛-inch medium-length rivets
• 4-inch hole saw bits
• Nails
• Drainpipe extensions
• Downspout U-brackets
• Flanged nuts
• Tin snips
• Fascia brackets
• Silicone caulk
• Nails 

Prep Work 

DIY gutter installation costs substantially less than having them installed professionally, but there are a few pitfalls to watch out for. You should carefully examine the site and plan your installation to prevent accidents, errors, and unnecessary expenses. Preparations include:

• Pick the right gutter size for your home. Undersized and oversized gutters don’t perform like they should, especially if they’re too small. Too-small gutters will overflow in heavy rains. 

• Map your gutters out on a piece of paper and clearly outline where everything will go. This will help you determine the tools and materials and the number of fittings you need to get from the hardware store. If you’re replacing old gutters, this plan should also include gutter removal and disposal. 

• Inspect the fascia and soffits for signs of rotting wood, mold, or mildew. If you find any issues, replace the part before putting up your rain gutters. Fascia and wooden boards running under your roof should be solid enough to accept new screws and hold heavy guttering. Consult a roofing contractor for further advice. 

• Prime and paint bare wood, if you have any. This protects the house and the gutters from damage and prolongs the life of your gutter system. 

• Remove crown molding or trim board nailed to the fascia under the shingles, if your house has them installed. They need to go so the gutters can attach to a flat surface. If you don’t wish to remove them, you can add a continuous wooden strip under them to create a flat plane for gutters. Make sure you prime and paint the bare wood before installation. 

• Time it right. The ideal time for gutter replacement is when the temperatures are warm and precipitation is low. Avoid starting the job if it’s raining because your new gutters will fill up, become heavy, and make the installation tricky. 

• Plan the drainage. To ensure your gutters work properly, they need to slope towards the downspouts. Plan for at least a quarter inch of slope every 10 feet of gutter. If the gutter runs 40 feet or more, pitch the gutters from the middle toward a downspout at either end of the gutter. Pitching the gutter correctly will help prevent clogs. 

Nine Steps to Installation

Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide to installing or replacing your gutters. 

Step 1: Remove Old Gutters

If you’re replacing old gutters with new ones, carefully remove the old system. 

Set up your ladder on firm, level ground and rest it about one foot offset from the fascia. Disconnect the downspouts from the gutter and remove them. Use a cordless drill to unscrew hidden hangers. 

Hidden hangers are clips that hold gutters to the fascia board of the house. Your house might have a ferrule or spike in its place. If so, slide a pry bar behind the gutter and tug back to remove them. Don’t rip the old gutters off as it can damage the fascia. 

Note: After removing old gutters, check the fascia and other areas for any damage and make repairs before installing new ones.

Step 2: Measure and Mark the Layout and Slope for New Gutters

Once the old gutters are safely away from the home, it’s time to mark where the new ones will go. 

• Mark the layout of your new gutter system on the home’s fascia board.
• Locate the highest point of the slope on the fascia 1 ¼ inches below the metal drip-edge flashing for each gutter run and lightly tap a nail there. 
• Mark the low ends of the gutter run where you plan to put the downspouts. Remember to mark the slope at least a ¼ inch vertical drop for every 10 feet of gutter. Rain water won’t drain otherwise.
• Fasten a string at one side of the gutter and measure the slope across the area. Snap a chalk line between the two points. 

Step 3: Attach Fascia Brackets

In most homes, rafter tails are marked by nail heads spaced 16 inches apart. 

• Examine the fascia, locate these rafter tails, and mark your chalk line on every other rafter tail.
• Use your drill and bore a ⅛ inch diameter pilot hole through the fascia on every mark. 
• Use ¼ inch stainless steel lag screws, at least two inches long, to fasten your fascia brackets. 

Pro Tip: Rub some soap on these screws so they can easily drive through the fascia to the rafter rails. 

Step 4: Cut the Gutter to Length

Climb back down from your ladder because it’s time to use the saw. Make sure you’re dressed appropriately and wearing the necessary protective gear. Lay all the materials you will need on the ground and get started:

• Using a hacksaw and aviation tin snips, cut the gutter section to length. You can also use a 12-inch power miter saw with a carbide-tipped finish blade for this.  
• If your gutter continues around the corner, cut the end at an appropriate angle (45 degrees for a square corner).
• If one run needs two gutter sections to get the slope right, overlap them by eight inches. Create two rows of four pop rivets each using your pop rivet gun and join them. You can also use ⅜ inches-long stainless steel, self-taping screws to join them. 

Note: Make sure these rivets are placed on the sides of the gutter instead of the bottom to prevent future leaks. 

Step 5: Attach Gutter End Caps

Set the end cap in place temporarily using a single sheet metal screw. Drill a ⅛ inch diameter hole at the square-cut end of the gutter. Install an aluminum pop rivet in the hole, remove the temporary screw, and replace it with a rivet, too. 

Seal the rivets and the end cap seams on the inside with a high-quality siliconized caulk gun. This makes sure the joint is strong and durable. 

Step 6: Mark, Cut, and Rivet Downspout Holes

While the gutter is still on the ground, turn the whole thing upside down to make holes for downspouts. 

• Place a downspout outlet on top of the gutter where you want to cut your downspout. Ideally, this cut should be at the low end of the slope. 
• Trace the inside of the outlet and mark the downspout hole on your gutter. 
• Drill an ¼ inch-diameter hole at the center of your marked outline. 
• Turn over the gutter and cut the downspout hole with your drill and a 4-inch hole saw bit.
• Set the downspout outlet in this hole and seal it carefully with a gutter sealant. 

Step 7: Install the New Gutters

Before you climb the ladder to mount your gutters, set each gutter section by the ladder in the order they will be installed. This way, it becomes easier for your helper to hand them to you. 

• Place each run of the gutter into the fascia brackets that you installed earlier along the slope line. 
• Rotate the gutter upwards to slip its back edge into the hooks at each bracket’s top.
• Once the gutter is in the brackets, drill 3/26-inch-diameter holes through each bracket’s screw mounting hole. 
• Secure the gutter with 1-inch stainless steel screws and flanged nuts to the brackets. 
• If there are multiple sections of the gutter in a run, use a gutter sealant to put them together.

Step 8: Affix Strip Miter Joints at Corners

If two lengths of gutter are meeting at a corner, cover the joint between each with a strip miter. 

• Use a 3-inch-wide aluminum strip miter and wrap it tightly around the underside of the gutter. 
• Secure it with eight pop rivets. 
• Use snips to cut a triangular section from the top of the strip miter, and fold the two flaps around the top edge of the gutter.
• Seal the joints with a siliconized caulk. 

Step 9: Attach and Secure the Downspouts to the Gutter

You’re almost there. It’s time to attach the downspouts that will carry water away from your house.

• Screw downspout elbow brackets on the corner board of your home at three points; top, middle, and bottom.
• Use four pop rivets or screws to attach the downspout outlet to your gutter. 
• Then, screw a downspout elbow to the outlet tube coming down from the gutter. 
• Place another elbow against the wall, measure the distance between the two elbows, and cut a piece of downspout to fit there. 
• Crimp the elbow as needed with needlenose pliers so that it fits the downspout. 
• Add a drainpipe extension at the bottom that will carry water away from the foundation. 
• Attach all the parts with screws or pop rivets. 

When To Hire a Pro

Working on a ladder with lots of tools and materials can be dangerous. A few simple mistakes can lead to problems or add to the project’s overall cost. It makes you wonder if and when to call a professional for help. Let’s take a look at both options:

DIY When: 

• You have some DIY experience and are a handy DIYer generally.
• You have all the right tools and equipment.
• You’re completely familiar with your home’s guttering system.
• You have plenty of time to devote to this lengthy project.
• You have a helper who can assist you throughout the process.

Hire a Pro When: 

• You don’t know the first thing about gutters and don’t know which gutters to get for your home.
• You are not confident on the ladder due to a lack of experience.
• Your gutters are still under warranty. Professional installation will cost you nothing. 
• Your fascia is damaged and needs lots of repairs before new installation. 

FAQs

What is the easiest type of gutter to install?

Out of all the different gutter types, vinyl and aluminum gutters are the most popular, and for a good reason. They come in pieces that you can easily join together, simplifying installation. Plus, they’re not too heavy, so lifting them on a ladder is not hard.

Is it easy to replace a gutter without help?

No. You need at least one person to assist you when you install or replace gutters since they are long, heavy, and difficult to handle. Your helper will monitor the ladder and hand you the tools and materials you need to mark and mount the gutters on your roof. 

How often should you replace gutters?

Generally, gutters last around 20 years with proper maintenance, but weather and material have a huge impact on longevity too. However, keep monitoring for signs that indicate a need to change gutters (as discussed above).

Let’s Hang (Gutters)

Gutter installation is typically a professional’s job, but there’s no reason you can’t do it yourself if you follow the proper procedure and safety precautions. 

It’s also important to remember that the appearance and functionality of your new gutters depend on how well you maintain them. Keep up with regular gutter cleaning, installing gutter guards, periodic inspections, etc. to make sure your gutters are in tip-top shape throughout the year.

Main Image Credit: Andy Dean / Adobe Stock / License