Power washing and applying a commercial degreaser or TSP mixed with water are industry-standard methods to give your driveway a fresh start. However, if you don’t have them on hand, there are most likely other products in your cupboard you can use instead.
If you’re dealing with severe stains, you may need to restore the entire surface with a mechanical grinder or blaster. For that, you’ll probably need a pro, but it’s otherwise perfectly realistic to deal with most stains on your own. Here’s how to clean stains in your driveway.
How to Identify the Stain
| Stain Type | Key Identifiers |
| Oil and grease | Darker brown, may be slippery, shiny when wet, water beads up on top, gear oil and grease are darker brown with a foul smell |
| Rust | Brown or dark orange, may be powdery |
| Leaves and grass | Shades of brown, may include a leaf or two |
| Paint | Distinct-colored spill, may be slightly raised |
| Coolant | Faint green with a slightly sweet smell |
| Transmission fluid | Slightly opaque with a reddish tint |
| Tire marks | Black or dark gray streaks, may show tire treads |
| Ice melt | White and crusty |
| Plant food | White and powdery at first, rusty orange over time |
| Pet stains | Darker than the surroundings with a noticeable smell |
The most common stain? “If you notice a stain on your driveway, 99% chance it’s oil,” says Craig Lloyd of Lloyd Handyman in Atascadero, CA.
How to Remove Driveway Stains
Supply list:
- Stiff nylon brush
- Bucket and hot water
- PPE: safety goggles, rubber gloves, respirator, long-sleeved clothing, and closed-toed shoes
When you’ve got all that down, pick the best products or tools depending on the stain.
Oil and Grease
| For mild and new stains | Kitty litter, then baking soda, cola, mild detergent, or dish soap |
| For thick and old stains, or if you want to prep the surface | Degreaser or TSP, or better yet, a power washer |
| Estimated cost | ~ $1 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 1 hour to 1 day |
Fresh spills: It’s easier to remove oil and grease stains if you tackle them right away. We have five cats, and they usually make cleaning harder, not easier, but this would be an exception—kitty litter soaks up oil.
So, cover fresh oil and grease stains with kitty litter or another absorbent material like sand or sawdust and leave it overnight. If you’re short on time, leave it for at least one hour. Then, sweep it and check the residue.
For mild and new stains: Try non-aggressive cleaning methods first, like baking soda, cola, mild detergent, or dish soap. “Believe it or not, Dawn dish soap works great,” says Lloyd. “Soak the stain with water, apply the dish soap liberally, and use a scrub brush to work it in. Rinse and repeat if necessary.”
If this method doesn’t do the trick, continue with a harsher method.
For thick and old stains, or if you want to prep the surface: “Degrease any oil spots with a commercial degreaser or a mixture of hot water and TSP,” advises John McTighe of Reliable Service Company in Chandler, AZ, in my article How to Paint a Garage Floor. The exact same recipe applies for cleaning a driveway, especially before painting, sealing, and chemical etching.
James Jennings of A1 Handyman in Boise, ID, recommends the same method. However, he says an even better way to get rid of oil, dirt, and other oil stains is power washing.
Rust
| For mild and new stains | Vinegar, lemon juice, mild detergent, or dish soap |
| For thick and old stains | Rust remover with oxalic acid, muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, or TSP |
| Estimated cost | ~ $1 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 10 to 30 minutes |
For mild and new stains: Relatively new rust stains are much easier to treat than old and dry ones. So, as soon as you see the ugly orange stain, you need to clean it instead of putting it off for another day.
Wash the surface with a mild detergent or dish soap and rinse. Pour undiluted vinegar or lemon juice directly onto the rust and let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes. Scrub the mark with a stiff nylon brush and watch it slowly disappear. Rinse the area with clean water, and repeat until the spot is gone.
Avoid using vinegar repeatedly on the same spot on concrete or pavers, as it may weaken the surface over time.
For thick and old stains: If the stain is stubborn, you may need a stronger solution to deal with it. Use a rust remover with oxalic acid, muriatic acid, or TSP. Mix with water according to your product’s instructions. Watch out, because some of these substances can cause severe burns and injuries—PPE is necessary.
Leaves and Grass
| For mild and new stains | Dish soap |
| For thick and old stains | Power washer |
| Estimated cost | ~ $3 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 30 minutes |
Cleaning stains on your driveways from foliage is easy, but it takes a little elbow grease.
For mild and new stains: Mix a cup of liquid dish soap with warm water in a large spray bottle, and then spritz the solution on the stains. Grab your scrub brush and scour until the marks lift from the concrete.
Rinse away the residue, and your driveway should be spotless again.
For thick and old stains: If some stains still remain, use a power washer.
Vehicle Fluids
| For mild and new stains | Dish soap |
| For thick and old stains | Power washer |
| Estimated cost | ~ $3 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 30 minutes |
Your vehicle’s other fluids aren’t as thick and viscous as engine oil and grease, so you’ll take just a slightly different approach when cleaning these stains.
For mild and new stains: Apply kitty litter or another absorbent material to soak up excess liquids. After an hour or so, scoop everything up and move on to cleaning.
For mild stains: Coolant and brake fluid are water-soluble, so start by wetting the stain with your garden hose. Give it a little time to dissolve the stain, then scrub the area with dish soap and rinse well.
Another way to clean these stains is to saturate them with water, cover them in a layer of soap or detergent, and lay newspaper over everything. Wet the newspaper and let everything set for a couple of hours until it is completely dry. Pull up the paper, dip your scrub brush in water, and work at the stain until you get thick, lathery suds. Then rinse.
For thick and old stains: Power wash.
Paint
| For mild stains, new stains, and stains on asphalt | Mild cleaning solution, TSP with water, power washer, citrus-based stripper |
| For thick and old stains | Gel-based or caustic paint remover designed specifically for masonry |
| Estimated cost | ~ $5 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 15 minutes to 5 hours |
For mild stains, new stains, and stains on asphalt: Try washing or power washing the surface first. If that doesn’t work, use a stripper.
“I always recommend starting with the least harsh option,” says McTighe. For light or new stains, McTighe recommends a citrus-based paint stripper, which “can be surprisingly effective and is a good choice indoors where ventilation is limited.”
You especially need to be careful with asphalt, which may get damaged from harsh strippers and paint thinner. Learn more in our guide on How to Remove Paint from Asphalt.
Citrus-based strippers are gentle on your driveway and your safety, but still effective at removing paint. ”These products are low in VOCs and relatively safe to use, though they still require gloves and a mask,” McTighe continues.
For thick and old stains: ”If you’re dealing with old, thick layers of paint or sealers—especially outside—I’ve had good results using a gel-based or caustic paint remover designed specifically for masonry. Apply it liberally, let it dwell according to the label (often several hours), then scrape or power wash it off.”
McTighe stresses that you don’t forget to clean off and neutralize the residue.
Pet and Animal Stains
| For mild stains | Baking soda, vinegar |
| For severe stains and urine stains | Oxygenated pet cleaner containing enzymes |
| Estimated cost | ~ $5 to $25 |
| Time required | ~ 30 minutes to 2 hours |
Whether your pet had an accident or local birds decided that your driveway is a perfect target for droppings, you’re probably looking at a stain you’d like to eradicate.
For mild stains: Sprinkle baking soda across the stain, and then spray it with a little bit of water. When it bubbles up, scrub it with a nylon brush and then rinse it away. If the odor lingers, try dousing the area with vinegar, letting it set for a few minutes, and then rinsing it clean.
For severe stains and urine stains: The best option is an oxygenated pet cleaner containing enzymes for smells that still stick around. These products are formulated to break down urine molecules and eliminate odor.
As a cat owner, I can tell you it’s especially important to get rid of the smell. Otherwise, your four-legged buddies might return to mark their territory again.
Tire Marks
| For mild and new stains | Mild detergent or dish soap, vinegar |
| For thick and old stains, or if you want to prep the surface | Degreaser or TSP mixed with water, or better yet, a power washer |
| Estimated cost | ~ $1 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 1 hour to 1 day |
For mild and new stains: Like with oil and grease, remove mild tire marks with a mild detergent and water. Alternatively, try a 50:50 vinegar and water solution.
For thick and old stains, or if you want to prep the surface: Degreaser or a mixture of TSP with water should work. If you have a power washer at your disposal, by all means, try it too.
Ice Melt
| For any amount of ice melt | Mild detergent or dish soap, vinegar |
| Estimated cost | ~ $3 to $5 |
| Time required | ~ 5 to 10 minutes |
Salt residue left on your driveway can be corrosive, depending on the formulation of the deicing product.
To lift salt stains, start with a vinegar and water solution or a household product containing a surfactant, e.g., liquid dish soap. Scrub the area with the cleaning solution using a stiff-bristle brush, and rinse well.
Plant Food
| For mild and new stains | Vinegar, lemon juice, mild detergent, or dish soap |
| For thick and old stains | Rust remover with oxalic acid, muriatic acid, or TSP |
| Estimated cost | ~ $1 to $60 |
| Time required | ~ 10 to 30 minutes |
Plant food stains are rust from the metal minerals in fertilizer. Therefore, you’ll want to tackle these stains just like rust. It’s essential to clean these stains as quickly as possible, though. Plant food will attract moisture and, in turn, create a weak acid that corrodes concrete over time.
For mild and new stains: Pour undiluted vinegar or a 50:50 vinegar and water solution onto the stain, scrub lightly with a nylon-bristle brush, and then rinse with plenty of water. Repeat as necessary. If vinegar doesn’t work, try a mild cleaner like dish soap before attempting a stronger commercial one.
For thick and old stains: Use a strong solution, just like you would for rust stains. A rust remover with oxalic acid, muriatic acid, or TSP should do it.
Super-Stubborn Stains
| For a deep clean | Commercial degreaser, TSP and water, muriatic acid and water, power washer |
| For complete surface removal | Shot blaster, diamond grinder, soda blaster, dry ice blaster |
| Estimated cost | ~ $100 to $600 for 1 day (may require a professional) |
| Time required | ~ 1.5 to a number of hours, depending on the size of the project |
You’ve scrubbed and washed your driveway, but the stains won’t budge. Now what? You not only have an aesthetic problem, but if you want to paint or seal it, it won’t work without a clean surface. Don’t worry, all hope isn’t lost.
For a deep clean: As I mentioned above, pros recommend a combination of either degreaser or TSP and water. On concrete, you can also use hydrochloric acid, but not to remove grease.
Mix your products with water according to the instructions. Watch out, because some of these substances, like hydrochloric acid, can cause severe burns and injuries—PPE is necessary.
Then, a good power wash, and most stains should be gone.
For complete surface removal: You can choose to diamond grind or blast the driveway. This is standard for concrete and asphalt driveways—not really for other materials, like brick, where you might want to assess the situation and replace individual bricks instead.
McTighe advises professional soda or dry ice blasting for large-scale or tough restoration jobs. ”This isn’t something I do myself, but I’ll recommend it to customers when it’s needed. It’s effective but can be costly.”
Bruce Guard of Texas Tough Concrete Coatings in Georgetown notes that most paints and sealers require mechanical grinding or shot blasting before application. This process not only makes the surface the perfect texture for adhesion but also removes all stains, no matter how stubborn.
”Mechanically grinding involves using a heavy grinder with diamond bits encased in metal to scratch the concrete and open its pores. Shot blasting involves ejecting media (usually steel shot) at high speeds from a shot blaster, which then recollects the shot in a single, uninterrupted cycle.”
Any kind of blasting is best done by a professional—it’s hard to do and poses safety hazards. If you set your mind on shot blasting your driveway, though, there’s more information in my article on How to Etch Concrete.
Safety Precautions
Wear PPE: Even though some products are common, they’re still harmful after prolonged use or exposure. Other products, like muriatic acid, are even dangerous and may cause burns and other injuries. Be careful and protect yourself.
Handle with care: For the same reasons as above, handle all your products with care.
Read your product’s directions: Always read the directions thoroughly on commercial driveway cleaners and on any chemicals to minimize damage to your driveway, yourself, and the surrounding environment.
Protect your lawn: If you wash cleaner off your driveway into your lawn, use plenty of water to dilute the cleaner. Some of these items will quickly damage your grass and plants at higher concentrations.
Test it: Always test your cleaner on a small, out-of-the-way section of your driveway before cleaning the stain. If the product damages your drive, it won’t be in an obvious spot.
Regardless of your product, you may need to clean the stained area more than once to fully lift the discoloration from your driveway.
Don’t use vinegar repeatedly on concrete, or you might weaken it. Also, don’t use certain solvents, like paint thinner, on asphalt.
How to Prevent Driveway Stains
Even when you try your hardest to be careful, accidents (and oil leaks) happen, and we wind up with stains on our driveway. One of the best ways to prevent this is to seal your driveway. It increases the lifespan of your driveway and adds to your curb appeal.
Read more: How to Seal Concrete
FAQ
You should avoid using a wire brush to clean your driveway, regardless of the stain or the driveway type. Wire brushes are too abrasive and will leave scratches and scuffs on the surface.
Instead, use a stiff-bristled nylon brush. If you’re struggling to clean the stain, try using a more powerful cleaner instead of a more abrasive brush.
Bleach is effective at cleaning standard concrete surfaces, but you should avoid it if you have stained concrete or colored pavers. If used on these driveways, it will pull the color out of the material.
Moreover, bleach doesn’t remove grease as effectively as degreaser and other products. Since there are other household cleaners that work well, it’s best to try one of them.
Yes, laundry detergent has degreasing properties and will be effective at cleaning your driveway to a degree, but you’ll really need to scrub it in. I don’t include it as a recommendation above because there are more effective cleaners and because it’s not the best choice for the environment.
However, if you’re dealing with a stain and a biodegradable laundry detergent is all you have on hand, try it instead of dish soap or use it as a mild degreaser.
Yes, but again, you need a biodegradable oven cleaner if you want to use it outside. Otherwise, you’ll be letting chemicals leak into the environment.
Looking at the ingredients above, there are a few combinations you can try. For example, mix one cup of baking soda, one cup of white vinegar, and a tablespoon of dish soap with a gallon of water.
Pressure washing and either a commercial degreaser or a TSP and water mix should work. Alternatively, bleach should whiten the surface as well. As a last resort, you may need to grind or blast the concrete.
It’s Comeback Time for Your Driveway
Cleaning driveway stains usually seems like a simple DIY project, but sometimes it turns into a “D-I-why-did-I-do-this?” mess. You can call a pro for any driveway cleaning, but especially if you’re dealing with severe stains that require the use of heavy machinery.
Home Gnome delivers the best home service experience at the click of a button. Book reliable, skilled services in seconds and leave the rest to us.
Main Image: Man applying oil stain remover to concrete driveway. Image Credit: Scott Habermann / Adobe Stock
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