Over time, bathrooms can start to look tired. Or, you’ve bought an older home and realize, as I did, that a shocking pink bathroom was not going to work.
But you aren’t stuck with shocking pink. Painting is the easiest way to give your bathroom a fresh, clean look. In this article, I’ll share my firsthand tips and show you how to paint your bathroom.
| Project difficulty: Intermediate Estimated time to complete: From 5 hours to up to 1 day, depending on your paint’s drying time and how many coats you will need. Project cost: Around $120 for materials. *If repairs are needed, expect to pay around $45 for the materials |
Choose the Right Type of Paint
Those steamy showers and bathtub splashes can make for a damp room. So, bathroom paints must withstand moisture without peeling or sprouting mildew.
You can buy specially formulated bathroom paint, but generally, latex or oil-based satin, semi-gloss, or high-gloss paint are good choices — the glossy finish dries into a hard, water-repellent coat. (Latex offers easier cleanup and quicker drying times, while in some cases, oil-based paints provide a smoother finish.)
When to Use Primer
Think of primer as the foundation of your paint job. It’s formulated to seal porous surfaces, help paint adhere, and produce a smooth, uniform finish. You can buy primers just for bathrooms.
Use primer when:
- The wall is stained or patched.
- You’re painting over high-gloss, semi-gloss, or oil-based paint.
- You plan a drastic color change. (We learned this the hard way at my house: We painted light brown over bright yellow — the result was a nasty green.)
My Tip: Primer is a must for new drywall, which is very porous. It drinks regular paint, leaving an uneven finish. I’ve found that even with a base of builder’s-grade paint, drywall will soak up the paint. So don’t skimp on the primer.
Gather Your Tools
Painting, like any task, requires tools, with brushes and rollers topping the list. Rollers and brushes can be made of natural fibers, synthetics, or foam. Which to use? It depends on the paint.
Rollers
Natural fiber: Good for oil-based paint.
Polyester: Good for water-based latex.
Foam: Good for high-gloss latex or oil-based paint.
Paint Brushes
Synthetic bristles: Usually nylon, polyester, or a mix. Good for both latex and oil-based paints.
Natural bristles: Best for oil-based paint.
Foam: Works with both types of paint; good for trim.
Of course, you’ll need other tools to make the job go smoothly:
- Drop cloths
- Spackle
- Caulk
- Painter’s tape
- Rags and screwdriver
- Putty knife
- Paint tray or roller grid
Prep the Room
It’s tempting to dive into painting. But save yourself time and potential aggravation by doing the following:
Clear the walls: Take off anything you can easily remove, like:
- Light switch and outlet covers
- Light fixtures
- Towel racks, toilet paper holders
- Curtain rods
- Mirrors and art (nails, too)
- Shelves
Wash the walls: Bathroom walls attract things like dust, soap scum, fingerprints, and splattered sunscreen. All of this prevents the paint from properly adhering. Use warm water and a mild soap to clean the walls, then rinse, using a sponge. Wait 24 hours before taking the next step.
Make repairs: Patch any damaged drywall. Fill cracks and holes with spackle. If needed, caulk around windows and trim. Let everything dry, then sand and wipe down patched areas.
Use drop cloths: Cover floors and large fixtures to protect from splatters.
Start taping: Use painter’s tape to mask the edges of cabinets, trim, the toilet tank — anything you can’t move that’s adjacent to the wall. Press firmly as you apply.
How to Paint Bathroom Walls
Finally, it’s time to use the rollers and brushes. Primer goes on first (if you’re using it). Let it dry thoroughly. (Follow the manufacturer’s directions for drying times.)
Pro Tip: You can leave painter’s tape on between primer and paint. Just remove it when you finish the job.
The technique for painting a room is the same, be it for primer or paint. Here’s how to do it:
Start With the Cut-Ins
Cutting in is the technique used to paint tight areas that a roller can’t get into, like corners, ceiling lines, and around trim. (Consider any tape to be an extra layer of protection.) Essentially, you’re painting a border around the wall.
Pro Tip: Use a 1.5-inch to 2-inch angled brush for best results.
How to Cut In
- Hold the brush like a pen. (You’ll be painting at a 45-degree angle.)
- Dip a third of the brush into the paint, then tap it (don’t drag) on the side of the can.
- Apply the paint close to (but not against) the edge. Then go back and spread the paint into the edge. Take your time; you’ll get a better line.
Where to Start
Do cut-ins in this order:
- Ceiling
- Wall corners
- Around door and window frames, outlets, and switches
- Baseboards
If you don’t plan to paint the ceiling, there are ways to protect it during cut-in:
- For a smooth-surface ceiling: Run a piece of painter’s tape flush against the edge.
- For a textured or popcorn ceiling: Run a flat-head screwdriver along the edge of the ceiling. That creates a narrow groove that allows bristles to slide in.
My Tip: Another option is to use a paint shield. Hold it against the ceiling, and carefully run the brush along the edge. You can buy paint shields, though, at our house, we’ve found that a small, thin piece of cardboard works, too.
How to Paint a Wall With a Roller
Finally, it’s time to use the roller. Here’s how to get a smooth, even coat of paint on the walls.
- Dampen the roller with a wet rag, then lightly dip it in the paint. Roll it across the grid or paint tray to distribute the paint.
- Going from top to bottom, roll the paint on the wall in a ‘V’ or a ‘W’ pattern. Overlap the lines, and don’t press the roller into the wall.
- Paint over the cut-ins. Get as close to the edges as possible. (Turn the roller sideways to reach the ceiling and baseboard edges.)
- To even out the paint, lightly roll the wall from top to bottom.
Pro Tip: Do cut-ins and roller work one wall at a time. Painting over dried cut-ins will produce an uneven finish.
Time to Clean Up
You’ve finished painting, but there’s one last chore — the cleanup. Some tips to make the job easier:
- Take off painter’s tape before the paint dries. This lessens the chance that you’ll pull paint off the wall.
- Wipe up splatters and drips with a wet cloth. Use mineral spirits for oil-based paints.
- Clean tools and brushes immediately. For latex paint, use warm, soapy water. For oil-based paints, use paint thinner or mineral spirits. (Make sure you have adequate ventilation.)
- When removing drop cloths, fold the edges toward the middle to avoid splattering paint.
Pro Tip: Most paint roller covers are disposable, but high-quality ones can be cleaned. If you plan to paint again soon with the same color, place the roller in a plastic bag and seal it tightly.
Storing Leftover Paint
If you have a proper storage space, keeping leftover paint can make sense. Things happen — at my house, we’ve dealt with everything from minor scratches to major drywall repairs after a pipe leak. Having matching paint on hand makes the repair process easier.
My Tip: To avoid guessing games later, write the room name on the can. We also keep the mixing formula label from custom-mixed paints. That ensures a good color match should we have to buy more.
If you must get rid of the paint, please do it responsibly. Many cities operate household hazardous waste sites, recycling programs, or other disposal methods.
The Finishing Touches
Once everything is dry (follow manufacturer’s instructions on drying times), you can put your bathroom back together. So, reinstall the things you intend to reuse, and install any new fixtures. (That includes decorative touches, like curtains and wall art.)
Put down the bath mat, then step back and admire the fresh, new look of your bathroom.
Read more about painting bathrooms:
Note: Home Gnome may get a referral fee for matching you with pros in your area.
Main Image Credit: Jessie Pearl / Adobe Stock Free / License
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