Your bathroom could use new cabinets. But the budget is tight, and you’re not confident about moving a sink. However, you’re not stuck: Painting is an affordable way to make those cabinets look better than new.
In this article, I’ll show you how to paint bathroom cabinets, and I’ll share some painting tips I’ve learned to help you get great results with minimum hassle.
| Project difficulty: Beginner / Intermediate Estimated time to complete: It can take 2 to 5 days depending on your paint’s drying time and how many coats you’ll need. Project cost: This project costs from $100 to $200. If you’re replacing knobs and handles, the overall cost can reach up to $300. *Some paints can take up to a month to fully cure, so remember to check the manufacturer’s instructions before putting your cabinet to use. |
Choose the Right Paint
Bathroom cabinets (like the walls) are exposed to a lot of moisture — showers, baths, wet clothes draped over the tub. Vanity cabinets also get splashes and drips from the sink. So, the paint you choose must withstand that moisture and protect your cabinets from grime and everyday abuse.
You can buy specially formulated cabinet paint or complete painting kits. But generally, a semi-gloss or high-gloss enamel, in either alkyd (oil-based), or water-based latex, is considered a good choice: The higher the gloss, the more protection against moisture.
But how to choose between oil-based and latex paints? It depends on what your cabinets are made of. Some common materials are:
- Plywood: This moisture-resistant material is made of thin sheets of wood and adhesive. Water-based latex is suggested, but if the wood has been waterproofed, use oil-based paint.
- Particle board: This budget-friendly option is not naturally water-resistant and is usually covered with a plastic veneer. Oil-based enamel will provide the most durable surface, but latex paint is also an option.
My Tip: You may find that your bathroom vanity cabinet is like mine: varnished wood doors and a particle board box covered with veneer. Oil-based paint is a good option for painting both doors and box. See the suggestions in the next section for choosing primer.
- MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard): Made from wood fibers, wax, and resin. It has a smooth surface but isn’t as moisture-resistant as plywood or solid wood. Oil-based paints tend to be recommended for their durability and smoother finish, but latex can be used.
- Laminate: A composite created by bonding paper with a heat-setting resin. (Plastic, wood, or fabric may be included.) A thin layer is usually applied to wood or MDF. Either oil-based or latex paints work well.
Note: If you plan to paint the cabinet hardware, don’t forget to buy a can of enamel spray paint. You’ll find an array of colors, including metallic hues.
Choose the Right Primer
It’s tempting to skip the primer, but don’t. Primer is key to a smooth, durable finish: It covers stains and imperfections and gives the new paint a surface to adhere to. To get the best results, match the primer to the cabinets’ current finish.
- Varnished cabinets: Generally, oil-based or shellac-based primers are good choices. If the current cabinet stain is dark, try a stain-blocking primer to prevent bleed-through.
- Particle board cabinets with veneer: An oil- or shellac-based primer is a good choice, but you can use a latex primer. You can cover oil or latex primers with a latex paint.
- Painted cabinets: If the current paint is in good condition, you likely won’t need primer. However, if there are bare spots or chips, use a primer that’s the same as the current paint.
- Laminate can be tricky — not all paints and primers will bond to its surface. A good choice is an oil-based bonding primer. With proper preparation (after the paint cures), you can finish with latex paint.
Pro Tip: Have the primer tinted to the new color. That will produce a more even color, and keep the old color from bleeding through.
About Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)
You may have read about, or seen retail displays of low- or zero-VOC paint. But what does that mean, and should you consider buying it?
Essentially, VOCs are organic compounds that evaporate at room temperature. Some of the common ones include:
- Formaldehyde
- Toulene
- Acetone
- Carbon tetrachloride
VOCs are used in the manufacturing process of thousands of products, including oil-based and latex paints. (They’re usually used as paint-drying agents.) The EPA limits the amount of VOCs in paint to 250 grams per liter for flat finishes and 380 grams per liter for all other finishes.
Exposure to VOCs can worsen symptoms for those with asthma and chemical sensitivities. Breathing at high levels can bring on:
- Eye, nose, and throat irritation
- Headaches
- Nausea
- Dizziness
There are low- and zero-VOC paints on the market if you’re interested in trying them. But whatever paint you choose, proper ventilation is a must. Some tips:
- If possible, move the cabinet to another area: If not, remove doors and drawers and paint them in a well-ventilated garage or other room. (More on that later.)
- Set up cross-ventilation: Open doors and windows on opposite sides of the room.
- Use fans: Place a fan in a window to draw out fumes; place another in the door to draw fresh air from the house.
- Use a respirator: There are a variety of respirators on the market that can match your needs. (And seriously consider one if you plan to spray paint.)
Get Your Tools Together
The proper painting tools — starting with brushes and rollers — make the job easier. Having them nearby will save you aggravation and delays. So, gather everything before you start.
Brushes and Rollers
You’re painting a smaller area with edges and tight spaces, so you’ll need smaller brushes and rollers.
Brushes: A 2.5-inch angled brush will do. Choose nylon or polyester bristles, or a combination of both.
Rollers: Choose a 4-inch to 8-inch roller. If you plan to paint inside the cabinets, consider adding a longer roller frame to your tool kit. The best roller material is foam. Foam rollers have no texture and apply a thin coat of paint, making it easier to produce a smooth finish and avoid lap marks.
Other Tools
You’ll also need:
- Painter’s tape
- Drop cloth
- Sandpaper (120 grit and 300-400 grit)
- Wood filler
- Putty knife and screwdriver
- Clean rags
Do the Prep Work
A day or so before you’re ready to start, clean out the cabinet (or cabinets) you’ll be painting. Those “oops” moments happen, and you don’t want paint-splattered towels or toilet paper. Besides, it’s a great excuse to declutter. Anything you absolutely need can go in a basket or box for now.
Then, set up a garage or another well-ventilated area where you can paint cabinet doors, shelves, and drawers (or the entire cabinet if you can move it), and let them dry undisturbed. A couple of plastic-covered tables can serve as a workspace for painting doors. (Also, you can buy painter’s tripods, or pyramids, to hold the door above the work surface. That makes it easier to paint edges.)
When You’re Ready to Begin
Remove cabinet doors, drawers, and hardware: For stress-free reassembly, take a photo of the cabinet; that will remind you how the pieces go together. Then, remove doors and hardware and move them to the work area. Some other reminders:
- Painting the cabinet’s interior? Shelves and supports can go out with the cabinet doors.
- Don’t forget to remove other attachments, like toilet paper holders, towel hooks, or storage bins.
- Replacing the hardware? If you can’t use the existing holes, now’s a good time to plug them with wood filler.
- Damaged veneer? If the veneer on your particle-board cabinet has come loose, gently lift it and scrape off as much old glue as possible. Apply contact cement to the back of the veneer and the board, then press the two together. (Always follow manufacturer’s instructions on application.)
Protect the room: Put down drop cloths and use painter’s tape to mask off the wall and floor adjacent to the cabinet’s body. On a vanity cabinet, tape off the countertop edges and overhang.
Clean the cabinets: Wash down the cabinet box, doors, and shelves with a product that removes dirt and grease. Follow product instructions on use and drying times. Once dry, this is the time to fill in any gouges or scratches. Use wood filler or spackle and let dry.
Sanding: Use 120-grit sandpaper to sand down all surfaces. You want to rough up the finish, not remove it. Take your time sanding around decorative trim to get into the crevices. Also, make sure any patches are sanded smooth.
After sanding, wipe down the pieces with a damp cloth to remove dust, then go over them with a tack cloth. Since dust will settle on the floor; vacuum around the cabinet box.
Time to Paint Your Bathroom Cabinets
Finally, it’s time to break out the paint cans. Start by painting a thin coat of primer on all cabinet surfaces. Always work from the center outward. Use the roller for flat surfaces; the brush is for edges, corners, molding, and trim.
The Most Efficient Way to Paint
Start with cabinet doors and shelves: Paint the backs of the doors and the shelf bottoms first. This allows you to spot any potential problems with the paint.
Move to the cabinet box: Use the roller on the sides; save the brush for edges or smaller pieces. When painting the interior, paint from back to front to lessen the mess.
Back to the doors: If the door backs and shelf bottoms are dry by now, turn them over and paint the front. Let everything dry overnight.
Sand Cabinets Again
When the primer is fully dry (check the manufacturer’s guidelines on drying time), give the cabinets another sanding — this time with 300-400 grit sandpaper — to help the first coat of paint adhere. If you’ve missed any scratches or dents, patch those now. (Be sure to sand the area when it’s safe.) Wipe everything down with a rag, followed by a tack cloth.
Break Out the Color
Finally, it’s time to put some color on that cabinet. Start with the back of the doors and bottom of the shelves, and use the same technique and painting sequence as with primer.
Latex paint dries quickly — within one to three hours — so you might finish the doors and shelves before dinner. Oil-based paint may need to dry overnight before you can switch sides. In either case, check the manufacturer’s directions on drying time.
Pro Tip: Use caution when painting drawers. Don’t get paint on the drawer glides and hardware; to prevent mishaps, protect those areas with painter’s tape.
One More Sanding
Yes, it’s tempting to forego a second coat of paint. But that second coat will help to build the protective coating on your cabinet. So, before you paint again, give the cabinet another sanding with 300-400 grit sandpaper. Then wipe with a rag and tack cloth.
The Final Coat
You’re almost done! If the paint is dry enough to allow a second coat, use the same techniques and painting sequences to apply it. Then let everything dry for at least 24 hours.
In the meantime, it’s a good time to start cleaning up. Pull off the painter’s tape, pull up the drop cloths, and clean the brush, roller, and anything else you’ve used. It’s also a good time to clean or paint any hardware you’re reusing.
My Tips: If you’re painting the hardware outside, pay attention to the manufacturer’s guidelines on humidity and temperature. Paint doesn’t dry well in humid conditions; it dries too fast when it’s hot, which compromises the finish.
Rethink painting outside when it’s windy, or even intermittently windy. A wind gust will send paint to places you don’t want it to go. Also, you may think your tarp or drop cloth is secure, but wind has a sneaky way of flipping it off the table or across the driveway. (Ask me how I know that.)
Last Steps
When everything is dry, it’s time to put the cabinet back together. If you’re reusing hardware, reinstall it. If not, it’s time to drill new holes if needed. You can buy drill templates to make the job easier, or you can make your own.
Paint can take a few days to a month to reach maximum hardness, or cure. (Check the manufacturer’s guidelines on curing time.) Generally, you can replace doors, shelves, and drawers when they’re dry; just handle them gently. (Refer to those photos you took if you can’t remember where everything goes.)
If you’ve painted the inside, let the paint fully cure before you stack things on the shelves or attach hooks or storage bins to the walls or doors.
Enjoy the Results
It’s always a relief when a project is finished. But now, you can see the result of your hard work. A few days of effort, plus the cost of materials, has given your cabinets a fresh, clean look that compliments your bathroom — for less than it would cost to buy and install new ones.
Read more about painting bathrooms:
Note: Home Gnome may get a referral fee for matching you with pros in your area.
Main Photo Credit: Govi Reddy / Flickr / CC BY 2.0
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