Mounting a headboard to the wall gives you better stability—no annoying wobbles or sudden bangs—and helps save some floor space. But for this to actually hold securely, you must follow the proper steps from the start.
You’ll begin by measuring carefully and marking where you want your headboard to hang. Next, locate the studs or use durable wall anchors suited for your specific type of wall.
After securing brackets to the wall, set the headboard firmly in place, checking alignment along the way. Overall, this project takes most homeowners just one or two hours at most.
In this guide, I’ll help you choose materials based on your wall type and share pro insights for smooth installation.
| Project Difficulty: Intermediate Estimated Time to Complete: 1 to 2 hours Project Cost: $30 to $50 or less for all necessary materials, not including tools |
Supplies Needed
Having the correct tools and materials on hand makes mounting your headboard to the wall easier and more secure. Here’s everything you’ll need for this project:
Tools:
- Stud finder (with wire-detection mode)
- Screwdriver (and electric drill if necessary)
- Measuring tape
- Level
- Pencil (for marking)
- Safety glasses
- A helper
Specialty Tools by Wall Type:
- Drywall/Plaster: Standard drill bits
- Plaster Walls: Carbide-tipped drill bit
- Brick/Concrete: Hammer drill + masonry drill bit
Materials
- Wood screws (for studs) OR masonry screws (for brick/concrete)
- Headboard mounts: Mounting brackets, z-rings, OR french cleat hangers
- Wall anchors for walls without studs: Toggle bolts (drywall), molly bolts (plaster), OR plugs (concrete/brick)
Steps to Mount a Headboard to the Wall
Step 1: Assess Your Wall Type
Before drilling or marking holes, determine your wall type—drywall, plaster, brick, or concrete. Knowing this helps you pick the correct anchors and tools. Are you already sure about what’s behind that paint? Perfect; you can skip directly to Step 2.
Drywall, the most common type, sounds hollow when tapped. Plaster, usually found in older homes, feels harder and has a more solid sound. Brick or concrete walls are sturdy, sometimes with visible brick patterns or exposed concrete.
Note: If you are still unsure about your wall type, ask someone handy or experienced with home projects for advice.
Step 2: Plan the Placement of Your Headboard
The next step is planning exactly where the headboard should go. Don’t eyeball it; please use a tape measure and level here because you’ll notice even a tiny misalignment later on.
Here’s what to do:
- Measure your bed frame’s width (not the mattress), divide by two, and mark the center point on the wall with a pencil. Then, measure the headboard’s width, divide it by two, and mark its center.
- Choose the right height; the bottom of the headboard should sit at or just below the top of your mattress.
- Press the headboard against the wall in your desired spot and have someone hold it steady. Match the headboard’s center mark to the bed’s center mark on the wall.
- Trace the top edge and sides of the headboard with a pencil. Use a level to draw a light horizontal line through the center marks—this helps keep everything straight.
*My Tip: Don’t let the headboard’s bottom edge rise above the mattress top—it will look like it’s “floating” awkwardly. Also, leave at least 6 inches of space between the top of the headboard and the ceiling for tall headboards.
Step 3: Measure and Mark Your Mounting Spots
Once you’ve mapped out exactly how your headboard fits against the wall, the next step is marking holes clearly for mounting. The simplest place to start is right behind your headboard.
Check the pre-drilled holes or metal brackets included with the headboard—these tell you exactly where your screws should go.
*If your headboard lacks pre-drilled holes, use an electric drill with a wood bit to add pilot holes. Drill perpendicular to the surface, placing at least two evenly spaced holes 3 to 6 inches inward from each top corner, depending on your mounting hardware and headboard.
Here’s what to do next:
- Lay your headboard face down on a soft surface (like a blanket) to avoid scratches. Measure the distance between the centers of the left and right mounting holes and the distance from the holes to the bottom edge.
- Then, using your wall markings, measure on the wall: from the center mark, measure left and right for horizontal spacing; from the bottom line, measure up to match the vertical spacing.
- Use a level to draw a straight horizontal line, re-check your measurements, and mark a clear “X” for each screw.
Step 4: Find the Studs (Drywall or Plaster)
Use a wall stud finder with wire-detection mode to locate wall studs—the wooden beams behind drywall or plaster walls. Move it slowly along the wall; it will beep or light when it finds a stud (usually every 16 or 24 inches). Mark stud edges with a pencil.
Sometimes, studs won’t line up just right with your headboard’s holes. Josh Qian, COO and Co-Founder of Best Online Cabinets, advises: “If your headboard isn’t aligning with the studs, you’ll need to use appropriate wall anchors to distribute weight evenly.”
Note: Wire detection helps avoid drilling into electrical wiring. If it alerts you, mark carefully and avoid that spot. Adjust slightly to either side for a safer place to drill instead.
Step 5: Pick the Right Wall Anchors (If No Studs Align)
If your mounting marks aren’t lining up with your studs—or you’re working on a concrete or brick wall—you’ll need anchors that can support the weight of your headboard and work for your wall type.
Here are several options:
- Drywall (If no studs align:): Josh Qian recommends toggle bolts or heavy-duty wall anchors since (like molly bolts) “they provide a strong hold without damaging the wall.” Toggle bolts hold 30 to 50 lbs each. Check out How to Use Drywall Anchors in 5 Steps.
- Plaster walls: Use similar heavy-duty anchors, such as molly bolts. They hold up to 75 lbs per pair, depending on their size.
- Concrete or brick: Go for masonry screws paired with proper masonry plugs. As Josh says clearly, “Masonry screws accompanied by suitable wall plugs create a secure fit in tougher materials.”
Step 6: Drill Holes
This is the moment where a careful, steady hand matters. Put on your safety glasses and double-check that your drill bit size matches your screws or anchors. Work slowly to avoid mistakes.
*Note: If you haven’t done so yet, carefully scan the wall for wires or pipes using a stud finder with “wire detection” mode. If it alerts, adjust your drilling marks slightly to either side, ensuring everything stays aligned with your headboard.
Here’s what to do based on your wall type:
- Drywall and studs: Use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screws to create pilot holes. Drill the holes one inch deep into the stud marks. Also, keep the drill straight to avoid angled holes. Check out How to Drill a Hole in a Concrete Wall in 4 Simple Steps
- Plaster walls and studs: Use a carbide-tipped drill bit (for plaster). Once through the plaster, switch to a standard drill bit for the wooden stud. Drill slowly—let the drill’s weight do the work. No pushing.
- Drywall or plaster (with no studs): Check anchor packaging for the exact drill bit size. Drill straight through the wall (use a carbide-tipped drill bit for plaster walls).
- Concrete or brick: Use a hammer drill with a masonry bit (match your anchor size). Drill holes around 1/4 inch deeper than your anchors will sit.
Read our complete guides on How to Drill a Hole in a Concrete Wall and How to Drill into a Brick Wall.
Dust Warning: Wear a mask when drilling brick/concrete.
Step 7. Insert Anchors (If Needed)
If you’re using anchors (like toggle bolts or molly bolts), here’s what to do next, depending on your anchor needed:
- Install molly bolts: Insert them into the hole and tighten them following the instructions on their packaging.
- Use toggle bolts: Push the toggle through the hole and pull gently to make sure it opens securely behind the wall.
- Insert masonry anchors (Concrete/Brick): Use a hammer to carefully tap the anchor in until it’s flush with the wall, but not damaged.
Step 8: Install Headboard Mounts
Using a screwdriver or a drill, attach the mounting brackets to the wall by driving screws securely into each prepped hole or anchor. Use a level to keep them straight.
Start slowly, keeping each one snug, not excessively tight. Make sure you position the brackets evenly aligned over the drilled holes. Next, fasten any matching brackets securely onto your headboard (if they aren’t already attached).
For DIY projects or if your headboard didn’t come with mounting hardware, you have several options, including:
- French cleats use two interlocking 45-degree wood pieces—one on the wall and one on the headboard. One cleat works for most, but add a second for extra-heavy designs, preferably attached directly to the wall studs.
- Z-clips are lightweight, interlocking metal brackets (one to two clips) with pre-drilled holes perfect for securely flush-mounting heavy headboards onto drywall, plaster, concrete, or brick walls.
- Headboard mounting clips are small, easy-to-install metal brackets screwed onto the wall and headboard. Ideal for lightweight headboards (under 50 lbs). You’ll usually need 4 to 6 clips evenly spaced.
Step 9: Secure the Headboard to the Wall
Get some help for this step. Even lighter headboards are awkward—a second pair of hands makes all the difference. Carefully lift and align your headboard brackets onto the matching wall mounts or cleats.
Once aligned, gently lower it into place; listen for a solid snap if you’re using Z-clips or French cleats. Give it a few firm nudges to test. Nothing should move; no wobbling at all.
If anything feels loose, double-check that all screws are tight and ensure the headboard is fully seated on the mounts.
Other Headboard Installation Options
Maybe attaching your headboard directly onto your wall isn’t the best fit—or perhaps you rent and drilling holes simply isn’t okay.
Here are some other headboard installation options to consider:
- Make your headboards freestanding: No drilling or wall damage is needed. It simply stands behind your bed. If your headboard isn’t freestanding by design, you must add supportive feet for more stability.
- Attach a headboard to a bed frame: Skip wall installation entirely by bolting your headboard right onto your bed frame. It’s easy to move when you rearrange furniture.
FAQ About Headboards
Yes, nearly any headboard can be wall-mounted as long as you choose secure hardware and the right mounting method. For heavier pieces, always anchor to studs or use heavy-duty anchors matched to your wall type.
Some of the benefits of wall-mounted headboards are greater stability, better aesthetics, and a wider selection than typical headboards.
Wall-mounted headboards require drilling, so they’re trickier in rentals. They also need careful planning for stability—improper anchors or skipped steps could cause tipping hazards or damage your walls.
Yes, removable adhesive strips or industrial-strength hook-and-loop fasteners work for small, lightweight headboards. Still, permanent brackets provide better security and stability, especially critical with heavier (over 30 lbs) or taller headboards.
Final Tip for a Sturdy Headboard
Many of us like diving into DIY projects without carefully reading instructions—I totally get it. But as furniture expert Josh Qian stresses, securely mounting your headboard prevents it from tipping over or falling.
His advice is simple: “Do not rush the installation. Take your time to ensure everything is level and secure.” So, take the extra 10 to 15 minutes to measure twice, use proper anchors, and follow each step. When you’re careful now, you avoid bigger problems later.
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