How to Set Up a Freestanding Headboard: DIY in 7 Steps

Freestanding headboards are a popular choice that adds flexibility and style to your bedroom. This is especially helpful in rental spaces or for people who move regularly, as you don’t have to secure it directly to the wall or permanently attach it to the bed frame.

Instead, you’ll make simple structural adjustments—like installing legs and connecting brackets—to keep the headboard sturdy while still allowing some movement.

Picking heavier wood materials ensures stability by providing additional weight. Your design should have wide legs or extend fully down to the floor for good balance and weight distribution.

In this article, I’ll guide you step-by-step through selecting proper materials, assembling a sturdy structure, and adding reliable support. The best part? You’ll also learn tips and practical solutions directly from a furniture expert.

Project Difficulty: Intermediate Estimated Time to Complete: 2 to 3 hours Project Cost: $100 or less for all necessary materials, not including tools

What You’ll Need

To make your DIY freestanding headboard, you need some supplies. Here’s a quick list of materials and tools you’ll need before you can get started:

Materials:

• One sturdy headboard (oak, walnut, or MDF recommended)
• Lumber:
  • Two pieces of 2×4 lumber (for basic supports) OR
  • Two pieces of 4×4 lumber (for heavier headboards)
  • Two additional 8 to 10-inch pieces of lumber (for “feet” – optional)

• Hardware:
  • Wood screws (2 to 2.5 inches long) – at least 4 to 6 screws
  • L-brackets (if using bottom-edge supports) – at least four brackets
  • Smaller screws (3/4 to 1-inch) for L-brackets – at least eight screws
  • Self-adhesive rubber or felt pads – 4 pieces for leg bottoms
  • Shims (for making adjustments if needed)
  • Threaded feet with felt bottoms (optional for addressing baseboard gaps)

• Adhesives: Wood glue (for attaching support “feet” to legs)
• Finishing Materials (Optional): Paint or stain to match your headboard

Tools:

• Measuring tape
• Pencil for marking and paper
• Level
• Drill with bits (particularly 1/8 inch for pilot holes)
• Circular saw, or miter saw (or have lumber cut at hardware store)
• Sandpaper (medium-grit and fine-grit)
• Screwdriver (or drill with screwdriver bits)
• Clamps to secure wood while cutting
• Small knife (for making incisions in upholstered headboards)
• Safety gear (safety glasses and gloves)

7 Steps to Make Your Headboard Freestanding

A freestanding headboard is usually a larger standalone furniture item, around 10 inches thick, often featuring shelves or storage. 

However, converting thinner wall-mounted or frame-attached headboards into freestanding styles requires careful reinforcement and specific support structures—keep in mind, though, not every headboard design can safely stand alone.

Step 1: Measure Your Bed and Headboard 

Before making your headboard freestanding, you’ll need accurate measurements of your bed frame and headboard. These will help you build legs or supports at the right height and width to keep the headboard stable.

Furniture expert Josh Qian says,​​ “The connection between the headboard and the bed frame is the most common stability challenge when creating a freestanding headboard. If the headboard isn’t aligned properly or secured to the bed, it can shift, leading to instability over time.”

Here’s what you need to measure:

• Bed Frame Width: Measure the widest part of your bed frame (not the mattress).
• Headboard Width: Ideally, it should be about 2 to 4 inches wider than the bed frame for aesthetic balance.
• Headboard Height: Measure from the bottom edge to the top edge of your headboard. Decide how much of this height you want visible above your mattress. 
• Bed Height: Measure from the floor to the top of the mattress to determine leg length. 

Write down these measurements clearly for reference throughout the project.

Step 2: Calculate the Leg Length for Freestanding Headboards

Depending on your headboard’s size, type, and design—and how it aligns with your bed—you’ll choose different ways to attach support legs, affecting their ideal height. 

Remember, behind-headboard legs are usually best for taller flat-backed headboards. On the other hand, bottom-edge legs typically suit bulky headboards or those with existing rear frames that prevent flush mounting without modification.

Here’s how to calculate how long your legs need to be based on the measurements above:

• Behind-Headboard Legs Option: Add your bed height (floor-to-mattress) plus the desired visible headboard height above the mattress. Choose one that extends 24 to 30 inches above the mattress for a stable freestanding headboard.

*Example: If your bed height is 24 inches and you want your headboard to rise 30 inches above the mattress, the legs should be up to 54 inches tall. 

• Bottom-Edge Legs Option: Make these legs exactly as tall as your bed height measurement (floor-to-mattress).

My Tip: Check your floor using a level. If the floor is uneven, adjust the legs accordingly to maintain stability and an even look for your headboard.

Step 3: Assess and Prepare Your Headboard’s Structure

Place the headboard face-down on a clean, flat surface to inspect weight, thickness, and existing hardware clearly. Heavier headboards require sturdier support legs, so identifying these details helps determine the type and strength of supports you’ll need.

My Tip: Take a moment to examine the back for any pre-drilled holes that could serve as ready-made attachment points, potentially saving you drilling work.

Here’s what to do next:

• Thoroughly clean the back surface to remove dust, residue, or old mounting brackets with a clean cloth to create a proper working surface.

• Using your measuring tape, mark leg placement positions with a pencil approximately 4 to 6 inches from each side edge. For stability, ensure these marks are symmetrical on both sides. 

Step 4: Prepare Your Headboard for Attachment 

For wooden headboards, pre-drill small pilot holes at the marked positions using a drill bit smaller than your screws (typically 1/8 inch). This prevents the wood from splitting when you attach the legs later.

If you have an upholstered headboard, press firmly to locate the solid backing board (typically MDF or plywood) beneath the fabric. Mark these points carefully, as they’ll provide the necessary structural support.

My Tip: Rather than forcing screws through the fabric, use a small knife to make precise incisions at your marked points.

Note for bottom-edge leg attachments: If attaching legs underneath, avoid angled screws. Instead, predrill straight holes to match your L-bracket placement to attach support legs securely. I’ll cover bracket attachment details next.

Step 5: Build the Support Legs

Now that your headboard is prepared, it’s time to build sturdy legs for proper support. 

You’ll need two pieces of 2×4 lumber for basic supports, or for heavier headboards, consider using 4×4 lumber instead for additional stability.

Remember to always take safety precautions when using a saw; always wear protective gear like safety glasses and gloves.

Here’s how to cut your support legs correctly:

1. Mark each support leg clearly according to measurements from Step 2.
2. Secure wood firmly on a flat surface using clamps.
3. Using a circular saw or miter saw, carefully cut straight across your marked lines.
4. Sand all edges smooth, starting with medium-grit sandpaper and finishing with fine-grit.
5. For extra stability, cut two additional pieces (8 to 10 inches long) to serve as “feet” that will extend behind the headboard. (Optional)
6. Paint or stain the legs to match your headboard. Let dry fully, typically 24 to 48 hours, depending on your product’s instructions. (Optional)

Expert Insight: Josh Qian notes that “adding rubber or felt pads underneath the base can prevent slipping on the floor, which is particularly important for hardwood or tile surfaces.” 

Simply peel and stick self-adhesive rubber or felt pads directly onto the bottom of each leg for added grip, stability, and floor protection. 

Step 6: Attach Support Legs

Your next step is to secure your supports to the headboard. With your headboard face-down, you are ready to attach the support legs.

Position the legs at the marked (pre-drilled) spots from Step 4, typically 4 to 6 inches from each edge. 

Use a level to confirm they are perfectly vertical. Predrill the holes slightly smaller than the screws at marked points on the legs to prevent splitting and ensure a secure fit.  

Here’s what to do next:

• Behind-headboard supports: Align each leg flush against the back side of the headboard. Secure by driving wood screws (around  2 to 2.5 inches) straight through these holes into the headboard. Use at least two screws per leg for stability.
• Bottom-edge supports: Use L-brackets (at least two per leg) under the headboard’s lower edge. Attach one side of each bracket to the back side or underside of your headboard first. 

Then, firmly secure the other side of the bracket to each leg with 3/4 to 1-inch screws. 

• Tighten Screws: Tighten all screws fully until they feel firm—don’t over-tighten, or you might damage your materials.

Note: For metal-to-wood connections (like with L-brackets), machine screws or self-tapping screws can be used. 

My Tip: Be careful when tightening screws—not too deep—so they don’t poke through the other side. Pick screw lengths that perfectly match your headboard’s thickness.

Step 7: Test Your Freestanding Headboard Stability

Once your headboard is officially freestanding, carefully lift it up. Have someone help you if it’s large or heavy to avoid injury.

Here’s what to do next:

• Place it against a nearby wall.
• Use a level to confirm that the top edge is straight and the legs rest evenly on the floor.
• If needed, adjust the supports or add shims under the legs to correct any leaning.
• Gently wiggle or push on the top corners of the headboard, testing for movement or instability.

Note: Double-check alignment and tighten screws if needed to stop any wobbling.

How to Install a Freestanding Headboard

At this point, your custom freestanding headboard is ready. Now, let’s install it properly behind your bed:

• Move the bed frame and mattress slightly away from the wall for easy placement.
• Carefully slide your headboard into position, centered against the wall behind your bed.
• Check alignment visually; adjust as needed for an even spacing of several inches on either side of your bed frame for a balanced appearance.
• Once in place, move your bed frame back gently until it’s snugly positioned against or near the headboard support legs.

Note: If you have a premade freestanding headboard, installation is easy. Follow the instructions that came with the headboard closely to set it up. 

How to Secure a Freestanding Headboard

If your freestanding headboard feels wobbly, try adjusting your bed so that it pins the headboard to the wall more tightly. 

If that doesn’t work, there are some easy ways to secure it more firmly:

1. Attach the Support “Feet”: 

Take the pre-cut “feet” pieces from Step 5 (about 8 to 10 inches). Position them at the bottom of each support leg, forming a T-shape. Mark their spot with a pencil. For proper assembly, first pre-drill 2 to 3 holes through the foot piece. 

Then align the foot piece to your marks and use these holes as guides to mark and pre-drill shallow pilot holes in the leg support to prevent splitting.

Apply wood glue to the joining surfaces and screw in place (about two screws per foot). Wipe leftover glue and let it dry completely. 

2. Create an H-frame for Larger Headboards: 

Measure the distance between the two vertical legs halfway down, and cut a 2×4 lumber to that length. Pre-drill pilot holes into each leg, then attach the crossbar securely with wood screws (at least two per side). 

3. Address Baseboard Gaps with Wall Spacers: 

Baseboards can make the headboard lean if it’s not secured. Because of that gap, it might tilt backward when you lean on it. 

Threaded feet with felt bottoms can help you fill the space, so there is no need for permanent drilling. Place them between the headboard and wall, then adjust by twisting until snug.

Expert Insight: Josh Qian also suggests integrating a simple connecting mechanism to secure your headboard directly to the bed frame quickly. Easy-to-use hardware like brackets or bolts keeps things stable while still letting you move or adjust when needed.

Note: You can use just one of the above methods or combine them as needed. Check stability after each adjustment. If it still feels too unsteady, consider adding a wider supporting base or replacing it entirely with a sturdier model.

Other Headboard Installation Options

Freestanding headboards are great, but there are other installation options depending on your room layout or needs. Wall-mounted headboards, secured with brackets directly into wall studs, offer strong stability but limit flexibility if you rearrange your space. 

Alternatively, many bed frames feature pre-drilled holes, making it easy to attach the matching headboard securely to the bed using bolts. Consider which method suits your bedroom best before starting your project.

Here are our complete guides on:

Read More:

How to Attach a Headboard to a Bed Frame
How to Mount a Headboard to the Wall

FAQ About Freestanding Headboards

Free Your Headboard

A freestanding headboard can be a great way to brighten up your sleeping space without having to go through a complicated installation. If you don’t want to buy an entirely new headboard, you can modify the one you already have to be freestanding.

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Main Photo Credit: Tim Keaty / Flickr / CC BY 2.0